Lightest Trucks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
Assuming 2x4 F-100, I would try to ditch the front suspension for something custom fabbed out of 1/4 aluminum instead of that big steel I beam. I have seen people put Mustang II front ends under F-100s. Though I think that is too light duty for 2 tons of truck.
The newer windshields are literally pounds lighter and they break much easier then older windshields when impacted.
The newer windshields are literally pounds lighter and they break much easier then older windshields when impacted.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 0
From: East Flat Rock NC
[QUOTE=
Click on chassis.
They say "$964 and up" for a truck kit.
You know, having a truck of our vintage done with a 60s/70s retro stock car design could be pretty sweet.
Happy Welding...[/QUOTE]
Thats a cool site ! These chassis are very cool they are all round tube witch
make them for NHRA Pro-stock truck ( Drag racing ) I wonder the price if you
pick it up already welded and 4 link bars 9in and strut front end .
P.S. truck kit is shipped to you as a pile of tubing and maybe 1 third of the
brackets you would need Although it would be fun to weld up .
Thanks for the link very cool!
Click on chassis.
They say "$964 and up" for a truck kit.
You know, having a truck of our vintage done with a 60s/70s retro stock car design could be pretty sweet.
Happy Welding...[/QUOTE]
Thats a cool site ! These chassis are very cool they are all round tube witch
make them for NHRA Pro-stock truck ( Drag racing ) I wonder the price if you
pick it up already welded and 4 link bars 9in and strut front end .
P.S. truck kit is shipped to you as a pile of tubing and maybe 1 third of the
brackets you would need Although it would be fun to weld up .
Thanks for the link very cool!
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Originally Posted by mlf72f250
Not cheap, but they have almost everything you'd need...
http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Trucks/67-Ford.htm
And here's your late-model truck tube-frame to go NASCAR racing...
http://www.childressracecars.com/truck_chassis.html
When I find a place that had U-weld-it kits, I'll forward that, too.
http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Trucks/67-Ford.htm
And here's your late-model truck tube-frame to go NASCAR racing...
http://www.childressracecars.com/truck_chassis.html
When I find a place that had U-weld-it kits, I'll forward that, too.
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 799
Likes: 0
Glad to help out.
I don't have the $$$ to do a project like that.
But someone should really do that.
It's the kind of thing that *must* be done.
NHRA ProStock or 1970 NASCAR styling for great acceleration *plus* cornering..
I don't have the $$$ to do a project like that.
But someone should really do that.
It's the kind of thing that *must* be done.
NHRA ProStock or 1970 NASCAR styling for great acceleration *plus* cornering..
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
Nice alloy wheels in the 15x8 size would shed about 10+ pounds per wheel (50 pounds for the total truck) over steel wheels. Plus, make the truck look nice.
I believe in full sized spares, though if you are not using your truck for towing or long distance travel, a mini-spare or even a smaller P235 sized tire would work.
Two bucket seats from an Aerostar weigh much less then the 30 year old OEM bench seat.
I believe in full sized spares, though if you are not using your truck for towing or long distance travel, a mini-spare or even a smaller P235 sized tire would work.
Two bucket seats from an Aerostar weigh much less then the 30 year old OEM bench seat.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Originally Posted by hoxiii
-Replace the steel inner fenders with the plastic ones from a later model truck
-move the battery to the cab area, preferably under cab
-go with hood pins so you can gut the hole latch mechanism
-get rid of the front bumper and put on a plastic or aluminum splash pan
-if you're in a warm area the heater core and mechanism can go
-firewall/floorboard insulation: do you really want/need it?
-drop the bench seat and get some fiberglass buckets
-steel door inserts
-Glass. if you're serious get into lexan, but you can't replace the windshield with it and have it remain street legal
Those are BIG weight areas. Just start looking around, see what is there that you don't really need.
Remember: It's easier to find 100 places to shed one pound than one place to shed 100 lbs
Justin
-move the battery to the cab area, preferably under cab
-go with hood pins so you can gut the hole latch mechanism
-get rid of the front bumper and put on a plastic or aluminum splash pan
-if you're in a warm area the heater core and mechanism can go
-firewall/floorboard insulation: do you really want/need it?
-drop the bench seat and get some fiberglass buckets
-steel door inserts
-Glass. if you're serious get into lexan, but you can't replace the windshield with it and have it remain street legal
Those are BIG weight areas. Just start looking around, see what is there that you don't really need.
Remember: It's easier to find 100 places to shed one pound than one place to shed 100 lbs
Justin
I like the hood pin idea and the plastic/alluminum splash shield. Does anybody know where I could find them, or the plastic inner fenders?
Another huge weight saver but very expensive replacement would be one of Caroll Shelby's series alluminum 427's, like Scouder's.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
Originally Posted by rebocardo
Assuming 2x4 F-100, I would try to ditch the front suspension for something custom fabbed out of 1/4 aluminum instead of that big steel I beam. I have seen people put Mustang II front ends under F-100s. Though I think that is too light duty for 2 tons of truck.
The newer windshields are literally pounds lighter and they break much easier then older windshields when impacted.
The newer windshields are literally pounds lighter and they break much easier then older windshields when impacted.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Originally Posted by maximumhorsepower
*************, where did you get the fiberglass fenders? On another note,to reduce weight, you could replace the steel bottom of your bed with plexiglass or aluminum
The bed would save weight but at this point the backend is so lite, I can't take anymore weight off for traction reasons.
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