Dose anyone know of an aftermarket intake for a 97 PSD

I have seen some but they are all for the newer stlye trucks

Are they worth the money?

Thank you
Andy

 

Yes get the TYMAR system. Worth the dough, priced right. Go the Ford-diesel.com to find out more as I don't have the info handy.

 

The email address for the TYMAR is:
all2dale@att.net
It's a very effective mod, easy to install, and will make a real difference in the way your truck runs, and sounds. Not too expensive, either.

 

Quadzilla

I ordered the TYMAR have not got it on yet but looking forward to that

I noticed on the list of goodies on your truck you have "Shimmed" is that the shimming of the fuel pump to up the pressure?

I have heard about that but don’t know really any more than just you can shim it

What dose it do and did it make any difference?

I would appreciate any info you could give me on that

Thanks
Andy
97 PSD

 

Yes, that's exactly what it is. This mod is intended to increase the fuel pressure, and the primary improvement is the idle smoothing out, and a little better throttle response off idle. In case you want the "long answer", here goes:
On the side of the fuel filter housing, on the left front corner, is a large brass nut, I'm guessing about 18-19mm. Before you go any further, do yourself a favor, and put a rag under the fuel pressure regulator to catch anything you might drop. Directly under the FPR is the "Valley of no return." They call it that for a reason. When that nut is removed, you'll see that it's actually a cap. Under that cap is a spring, which, at the other end, is contained in a small metal housing. What you basically are trying to do is increase the spring tension, which will increase the fuel pressure. There are a few different ways to do this. The conventional way is to use a standard BB, (5/16"), placing it inside the housing, reinstalling the spring, and putting everything back together. I didn't use that method, since I wasn't comfortable that I was getting the BB centered in the spring inside the housing. I used a #2 allen screw. You insert the threads of the screw inside one end of the spring, and put that end inside the housing. Either way, it's very important that you get the pin under the large brass cap centered in the spring during reassembly. If you fail to do that, and kink the spring, your fuel pressure will go ballistic. Bad, very bad. There is a shrader valve on the side of the FPR, so you can check the fuel pressure before and after the mod, to measure progress. There's diesel behind the valve, so when you're measuring pressure, you'll get diesel coming out of the valve in a big hurry. Wrap a rag around your pressure guage to keep the diesel fuel under control.
Here's what I experienced when doing the mod: When I started, my fuel pressure was about 40-45psi. Many feel that 80psi is optimal. First, I put in the #2 allen screw. The fuel pressure went up to 60-65. (It pulsates at idle, so you really get a range when you read it, rather than a static number like checking a tire.) I noticed a smoother idle, and liked the way it responded when starting up from a stop, but felt that I should take it to 80. To get there, I threaded a nut on the end of the screw, which compressed the spring more. That took me to 80-85psi, which is ideal for most trucks. What I experienced with my truck, was the idle was rougher than at 60-65, no improvement in off-idle acceleration, and my mpg went in the toilet.
I reset the pcm after each adjustment, and found that 80-85psi didn't work for my truck, so I took it back down to 60-65psi, reset the pcm, and my mpg came back. I'm very happy at that setting, but most people find that 80-85psi works better for them.
I hope this helps. I'm sorry I got so long-winded there, but once I get going......
Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.

 

Thanks for the Info I will give it a try

Thanks
Andy

 

Quadzilla is that fuel pressure regulator a problem on 99s and up or just the pre split shot injector engines? A friend of mine has a 97 PSD with 65k on it and it has that erratic PSD idle when it is up to operating temp. Also do you know if the 97s had the updated injector o-rings in them. I know the 95s had old style o-rings that were failing.

 

It's my understanding that shimming the fuel pressure regulator isn't necessary on 99's and newer, because of the different injectors. Late 97's had the split shot injectors, too, so they also wouldn't benefit. I'm not sure when the 97's went to the split shots, but The Diesel Dude probably has that information.
I hope this helps.

 

When I cleaned the screen on mine it smoothed out the idle noticeabley. However it never did what you describe on you buddies '97.

 

I put the TYMAR on last weekend
It defiantly made my pickup more responsive and the boost went up about 2-3 lbs so it must be flowing better

Thanks for the info about it
Andy

 

The Ford part number for the California fuel pressure kit is F6TZ-9K061-AA. Just ordered mine from fordpartsonline.com for $22.39,if for no other reason to see what Ford is selling besides a BB. Of course, a BB IS a lot cheaper (so's a #2 screw) and you can do a lot of your friends PSDs with the rest of the package. Quadzilla, I presume you're the same Quadzilla from Ford-Diesel.com? Don't recall anyone mentioning using a screw though. Sounds like A Better Idea!

 

Yup, I'm the same guy.
I had heard of using a 5/16 BB before, and when the time came for me to actually do it, I found a thread where someone had stated that they had problems getting the BB centered in the spring, so they went to a screw they had laying around, and it made it a lot more fool-proof. It made sense to me, too. It worked great for me.
I hope this helps.

 

97psd,
I wanted to install an open-element air intake on my 96. The Tymar is undoubtedly the way to go, but it uses the Donaldson/Baldwin PA2818 filter -- for which my local NAPA store charges $31.99 (OUCH!).

Therefore, I decided to use the Purolator A45090, which is available at almost any store (I got one at my local Meijer store for $16.99).

I went to a local diesel supply store and picked up a 4" 45 degree exhaust elbow for $22. I had to trim off 2" from each end because it was too long.

Now for the fun part. The Purolator filter opening is 3.75"; the exhaust tube is 4" OD; but the inside of the filter is 4". All I needed to do was get the tube started. I cut 8 slots (3/4" deep) in one end of the tube and used pliers to bend the "tabs" in slightly. Standing the filter on its closed end and slightly twisting the tube as I pressed, the tube popped right into the filter. The fit is so tight I have no worry about air-leakage. NOTE: for the paranoid among us, you can use 3M strip-caulk to seal around the filter/tube joint.

It works great and looks professional -- the turbo sings -- more seat-of-the pants feel -- and it sounds really cool to hear the turbo spin down when I switch off the ignition.

Good luck

 

 

Larry50 ,


if you are still out there , i read that you made your own intake ,
where did you get the silicon conector at ? i have only found it at ford and it costs $101 . amost a muchas the tymar kit .