Drip Rail
I need a driver side drip rail for my '78 F150. At least a partial (the horizontal part). It rusted through and was discarded.
MaxTek
Last edited by MaxTek; Apr 28, 2004 at 02:56 PM.
Excellent question. To my knowledge, they are not. I answered this post specifically so that I could monitor the replies. I am looking for some sort of a replacement rain rail. I could use a bunch of them.
KingFisher
your reply is pertaining to the chrome molding that the first post specifically stated he did not need. The drip rail is part of the cab not a molding and I have not seen them sold as a replacement item.
You might have to find a donor truck that you could torch or cut off the rails and then clean up before welding onto your truck. Or have a piece of narrow flat stock welded on and then cleaned up with a grinder before putting some nice chrome molding to cover up any uglyness.
just a few ideas anyway.
If you open your door and look up...it appears the drip rail is a welded on piece that has a flange going underneath the cab where the door closes.
I can get my cousin to fabricate one but I'm sure it will be a hit and miss project. Probably a lot of misses until it fits right.
The truck in question had a cab roof replacement done. That was a project! The weird thing is the same rust damage that happened to warrant the cab roof replacement is obviously happening again since one of the drip rails rusted off.
Any insight to this. After we welded on the new roof I put on the seam sealer and made sure all the weep holes were open and primed/painted it. It didn't last long. I guess its a Ford flaw?
MaxTek
I was afraid of this. No one has ever created an aftermarket rain rail.
Here's what I did:
I went to a junkyard.
I cut the cab roof off a donor truck and welded it to my truck.
Or I will when I get around to it.
I hope the donor doesn't rust before I finish the resto.
KingFisher
I was afraid of this. No one has ever created an aftermarket rain rail.
Here's what I did:
I went to a junkyard.
I cut the cab roof off a donor truck and welded it to my truck.
Or I will when I get around to it.
I hope the donor doesn't rust before I finish the resto.
KingFisher
Than again I POR15'ed very well and here we are talking about rust in this topic.
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From the bottom looking up they look welded on, sure, but I think that what you're looking at is actually the seam of the cab roof. I'm fairly certain that drip rails are usually crimped into the roof panel edges so they aren't really an off-the-shelf "part" that can be obtained. You might be able to fabricate new ones but then you'd have to grind off your old ones and figure out how to get the new ones on without warping the roof panel. Maybe spot welding and then seam filler? I dunno. I'm just wondering out loud.
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From the bottom looking up they look welded on, sure, but I think that what you're looking at is actually the seam of the cab roof. I'm fairly certain that drip rails are usually crimped into the roof panel edges so they aren't really an off-the-shelf "part" that can be obtained. You might be able to fabricate new ones but then you'd have to grind off your old ones and figure out how to get the new ones on without warping the roof panel. Maybe spot welding and then seam filler? I dunno. I'm just wondering out loud.

But I do see what you mean. I went out and checked my passenger side. The reason I thought it might be a part is from the appearance of the vertical part running down. It has an obvious flat flange coming away from the rolled/crimped actual rail.
MaxTek
Seriously, the easiest way to replace them is to clip the cab roof and weld on a new roof. How the heck could you dissassemble the cab to replace them. I guess you could grind the old ones off and weld a C-channel of similiar shape back over. Problem is that the cab is usually ate up as bad as the rails. Now what? It's almost worth your time just to get a replacement cab. Let's talk about something else. I'm getting depressed :<
KingFisher
Seriously, the easiest way to replace them is to clip the cab roof and weld on a new roof. How the heck could you dissassemble the cab to replace them. I guess you could grind the old ones off and weld a C-channel of similiar shape back over. Problem is that the cab is usually ate up as bad as the rails. Now what? It's almost worth your time just to get a replacement cab. Let's talk about something else. I'm getting depressed :<
KingFisher
Well it is a little depressing...no wait my whole truck project is VERY depressing. I will post a pic of the replacement rail my cousin makes. My plan is to get my cousin to cut-off (with a cut-off wheel or plasma cutter) whats left of the existing rail and than weld on the replacement. Obviously seam sealer, POR15 and others will come into play. I'm not going to roof replacement route again..didn't work the first time.
OK new subject and thanks.
Seriously, the easiest way to replace them is to clip the cab roof and weld on a new roof. How the heck could you dissassemble the cab to replace them. I guess you could grind the old ones off and weld a C-channel of similiar shape back over. Problem is that the cab is usually ate up as bad as the rails. Now what? It's almost worth your time just to get a replacement cab. Let's talk about something else. I'm getting depressed :<
KingFisher
How hard would this be? Has anyone done it? Obviously measurements will be crucial if everything is to fit. I would have to come about 6 to 8 inches down the A & B pillars to get past the rust. Will I be able to get it back together? I've been wondering if the pillars would spread or flex once the roof was gone and if I would ever be able to get it back together.
Maybe I'd just be better off using the 2wd cab as a donor for patch panels and try to keep my existing cab as intact as possible?
My "to do" list keeps getting longer and longer. This restoration business is like a disease.
You will need to setup a a series of jigs. They will fit into the window openings of either cab, (donor/resto). These jigs will clearly identify your start/finish points for the cuts. The true trick is to create a jig that connects the window jigs together and clearly marks the cut path. I would assume that leaving the doors on (hung correctly) would be a huge guide. A sawsall should make quick work of the sheetmetal and prevent any distortion. A mig welders and a serious angle grinder will bring this frankenstein back to life. This kind of repair should represent on of the most difficult restoration techniques that we could face. Once you tackled this, the sky is the limit!
Consider it,
KingFisher
Problem is that the cab is usually ate up as bad as the rails. Now what? It's almost worth your time just to get a replacement cab. Let's talk about something else. I'm getting depressed :<


