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Here is the deal...My truck(1987 F-150, 300 4spd 4X4 129,423) has a really bad studder through all of the gears. I've checked all of the usually suspects....spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, checked timing and it seems alright, changed the fuel filter, checked for air leaks and couldn't find any. I went back and retightened the valves and it still has that studder. I am starting to wonder if it's a sensor or something worse. If any of you have any advice for me on what to try next, please feel free to tell me. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for responding, I had to change the head gasket because the engine was burning coolant, and there was coolant in the oil. No, I haven't run a compression test, How would I go about doing that, and what testing tools would I need? Thanks again for responding.
You will need a compression checker which you can pick up at any parts house. Pull a plug and place the tester in the spark plug hole and crank the motor with the coil disconnected so it won't start. Usually about three revolutions of the motor is enough to get a reading. Should be in the 110 to 150 lb range. All cylinders should be within this range. Any that are well below it have leakage.
I will have to get a compression checker, and do it this week. I will post the results...Is there any thing else that might cause a studder. The studder only occurs upon acceleration, the truck seems to be fine at cruising speeds(65-70mph). I almost think that it is a fuel issue, maybe a pump, or bad injector... Please keep the suggestions coming.
sounds like you have an intake leak. di you try spraying starting fluid or car cleaner at the different interfaces of the intake and the intake and head?
My truck is doing the same thing right now. I have replaced the fuel preasure regulator, fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. Next thing is fuel pump, but I don't think that is it.
Does anyone know if the head gasket leaking could cause this problem?
i've got a similar prob i'm gonna replace egr valve when i get around to it replaced TB gasket and checked intake gasket no leak there i didn't feel like fighting with the bolt up against the firewall to put in a new one unless i knew it was leaking
Thanks for the ideas....I'm going to try to work on my truck this weekend, It looks like I'm going to be buying a few goodies at the parts store. How would you test the TFI ignition system? I think I might try the TPS sensor first, and hope that fixes it...I appreciate all the help I can get...
I know the TFI subject is probably taboo as it might be seen as an obscenity.
Your TFI, if it's mounted to the distributor, will just die on you, usually when you have your truck full of your family (like Mine) and, just as you pull out in front of a pair of GM Electromotive rigs in front of 65 cars of granite. (which mine did not, but it wasn't in a real convenient spot either) My suggestion is to buy a TFI and wrench and keep it in the truck. It's an easy swap and the most likely culprit for sudden loss of spark.
I ordered the TP sensor yesterday, and it came in today. So, I'm going to replace it tonight. The TP sensor was an odd one to find. I went to 3 different parts stores. The number on the original sensor had BB at the end of the serial number. 2 of the stores that I went to, didn't even carry it. The third finally had it, but out of stock. I will let you know how it turns out.
The restrictor will keep the motor from getting full effect of the EGR, but it won't completely block it off.
EGR replaces some of the a/f mix with already burned gases..to cool the chamber.
Sometimes this will cause these trucks to ping/buck/studder and sometimes idle funny.
The plate is pretty easy to make, 2 EGR gaskets and some sheet metal (maybe aluminum) and then just make a smaller hole in it than what the gasket has...and it restricts the flow. The two gaskets are to be used as a sandwich for better sealing and less vac leaks...some RTV wouldn't hurt either.
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