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were is the fuel filter located? i would like to change it because it hasnt been changed since i had it (1 month) and i doubt it that the previous owner had it changed either.
ive driven hundreds of thousands of miles. owned many many cars and vans.
i have learned that there is no need to change fuel filter unless your having a problems with the way it runs. in 25 years i have changed one filter. the only time it needs to be changed is when and if you get bad gas from a dirty pump. all gasoline today is highly filtered before you get it. if a filter does start getting dirty its give you warning in the way the van runs so you have time to change it.
i thought i should change it because it isnt getting the power that i should. do you think i should just have a diagnostic run on it or just have it looked at?
I'd say just change it out, it might help it might not but it defiinately wont hurt anything, and the factory does still recomend chaning it out every some odd thousand miles or so. (sorry I can't remember the specific interval right now.) Regardless though it wont hurt and it's cheap. If you are looking at where a power loss might be coming from though, I'd do a tune up first if you don't think it's been done in a while.
The MAF sensor is connected between the air tube and the air filter box. Unless you have a leak in your air filter or used an oiled gauze filter, it should not get dirty.
I tend to agree with Lasher about when to change it; if your engine is not detonating or stumbling, it's probably not clogged up. If you live in an area that has a lot of snow and road salt, and the canister is rusting out, then I would replace it.
Just a note. When I changed my fuel filter, the Haynes manual said to do something to the interlock switch(?) under the dash. Well, of course I couldn't find it. An easier solution was near the filter itself-I just unplugged the fuel pump & fired it up. This is a simpler (imo) method than the one in the haynes manual
I have had fuel filters plugged up on me before, once on a 72 Chevy Blazer and once on a 76 Dodge Colt. The symptoms were as follows: idle nice, weak going uphill with an occasional jolt from time to time, engine goes dead while climbing a moderate hill. In short, it acts up when one needs fuel most.
Bad side effects too! I had to restart the engine so often, the starter got stuck in the closed position and it melted my battery near Gallup, New Mexico, verrrrrrrrry far from home, in the middle of a summer heat wave. But that's when I was young and stupid. Since then, I have learned to change the filter every 50,000 miles, whether or not the car needs it. It's cheap and it's painless. Why invite disaster? Same thing with antifreeze.
The reason to change a fuel filter is not so much becaus of impure gasoline, it's from rust and other deposits that tend to break loose in the bottom of the gas tank caused in the first place by condensation in the tank. I have had several vehicles that seemed to run fine but had slowed down in acceleration. Cause was the fuel filter more than once.
Backing up lasher's post, the Ford service manual is quoted as stating the factory installed fuel filter is intended to last for "the life of the vehicle". Aerostars use a composite plastic fuel tank which effectively negates rust formation. Under normal operating conditions, fuel filters should not require changing. I agree with Scott9050 assertion that many older cars were prone to filter clogging, but this has become rarer these days with better technology. The fuel pump itself provides a very fine wire mesh pre-filter to enhance pump longevity. If fuel flow problems are suspected, connecting a gauge to the fuel rail Schrader valve can easily ascertain the status of the fuel pressure system.