Hi all, I know I've been U.A. from the boards for awhile (like you care) ...but I need something from you, of course that validates a visit??

Anyway, I have any one of a dozen excuses if you need one.

I have what I think is a good technical question, and a search didn't seem to yield anything for me:

I tow a 28ft. Haulmark Race Trailer, with either one of my "toys" in it, quite frequently. It has interior lighting and two loading lights (basically two foglights at the rear hatch) that require 12v, of course.

Often I am found at the track, with the sun setting at such inconvenient times!! ...that's where the lights come in handy.

Trouble is, I have to have my ignition key almost all the way on in order to use them, when the engine isn't running. I don't like this as I feel the need to turn my radio and any other accessory off, and something that sounds like a fuel pump pressurizes up for several seconds...this makes me wary as I don't want to screw anything up! Sometimes I need these lights for an hour or longer - while it doesn't seem to run the battery down a significant amount, I just don't like the idea that my ignition key has to be rotated so far.

Is there a quick down and dirty way to get 12v to that lead and just have the key in the 1st "click" position?? I was thinking about my previous truck, one of doze Chebbies and I hooked up my 12v lead in a little power box that was conveniently right next to the alternator...I seem to remember that I would have 12v there and not have to have the key all the way on...that was handy.

If there's NOT a quick down and dirty method of achieving this convenience, what is the "hard way"?

I'm thinking someone has noticed the same issue that I have and has found a great solution.

 

Why not put a separate 12V battery in the trailer?? With the 7 pin harness, I believe a charge goes back there to keep the battery topped off..

Russ

 

I put a switch on a truck to activate the relay under the hood for the 12v power to the plug. This was on a 97 f350 and it somehow messed up the vehicles cruise control. Later we put a 2nd relay in parallel to the factory relay that was fused to the battery and tied into the wire to the 7 way plug on the truck. We did not have any problems then. I agree that you should put a battery in the trailer.That would keep you from killing the truck batteries and charge off the truck when you are towing it.

 

Actually...you have brought me to what was going to be "Phase II" of my question!

I AM installing a car battery in the front compartment of the trailer, I am putting a diamondplate angle-cut (that's what I call it, kinda aerodynamic) on the exposed "A" section of the transom, just ahead of the trailerbox (where everyone else does) and this will make it easy to put a full sized battery in there, with a holder.

SO, if I take that 12V lead that is powered up with the ignition on to the + side of the battery, it will charge like a champ right?? ...will it overcharge or does the alternator sense that everything is charged and trickle off to freewheelin' as usual??

Am I on the right track in thinking that the entire electrical system, batteries and all are on the same circuit, once you connect up to the truck (from the trailer) and the alternator will charge if needed, hence covering the trailer battery and so forth?

I'm glad that we have some dialogue started in regards to this issue, and apparently some of you have tried something similar/related.

I do plan to use the trailer battery for overnight stays, etc. where sometimes I drop a mattress down and pass out...that way the lights can be accessible without having to leave the truck ignition switched to enable this all night!

But for loading up, etc. - just don't like leaving the ignition switch in that full on position.

 

Doesn't the power work with the key on accessory position? I'm pretty sure my '04 will give you power at the rear if you turn the key back from lock. That way all you light up is the radio.

 

I tried that the other night, didn't work...wish it did!

 

I don't believe it will overcharge the battery.. It's designed to keep trailer batteries charged.. A Fleetwood trailer I was looking at had an identical battery setup to run the pumps, lights and electronics. I would recommend a deep cycle battery for the trailer though. I use one and it lasts a couple of weekends before I have to charge it up.. This is also a great set up if you have to unhook the trailer & park along side of it..

Good Luck,

Russ

 

Whatever you do, it shouldn't overcharge the battery. All I have is a breakaway battery, so I don't really think that much about it. It never goes low enough for me to worry. The Aleternator knows exactly what to do regardless. Plugging in the trailer is just like plugging in a cellphone charger into the cig lighter for it.

I still think there might be an easier solution to getting power without cutting and splicing, though. I'll do some research and put it up.

I'm all for having the trailer with its own battery though. That way it won't matter.

 

Again, I agree, but for loading up for messing around for an hour or so, it's just simple to have the key one click up and get 12v back there...it it's a big ordeal, maybe the plug idea is what I should count on...or just not let the ignition key position bother me soooo much!

WHAT is that buzzing sound that sounds like a fuel pump pressurizing the line??

 

Aww heck. I just tried it out with a testlight tonight and you're right. 12V is only available with the key in ON. Shucks. I stand corrected,sir.

I think your battsaver won't let you kill the battery on that truck. Otherwise, I like the trailer battery idea and not leaving the key on. It bothers me as well. My '04 does that whirring followed by a grunt as well. I always had it drilled into me that you don't leave the key on without starting the motor. Years ago, the blower motor could run the battery dead. I think Mr. Computer is probably too smart for that these days.

That buzz is probably the fuel pump. It's external on the new diesels, so you hear it more.

 

It wouldn't bother me as much if you didn't have to have the key ALL THE WAY ON, just one click up and that would be fine...or the accessory position.

I have the same thing drilled into me, don't have the key on without starting the motor...something about burning up the ignition coil in those "earlier" days??

I'm thinking it's the fuel pump too, imagine it's pretty high pressure for the F.I. diesel and all.

 

Same type problem with boat trailer winch and camping trailer. I just ran a 10 guage wire directly off the plus terminal with a 60 amp breaker. Snipped the wire off at the rear receptacle and tied together there. Full time power at plug.

 

I considered that, but thought there might be a less "brutal" way to do it.

I may very well go that route!

Took the truck to the dealership yesterday, had an appt. for a State inspection and a reflash (I have the original flash, March of '03) because the idle was VERY erratic and I read about the improved shifting/downshifting/trans. brake points, etc. The IDIOTS couldn't get it done, even TODAY!!

My girlyfriend went and picked it up this afternoon and they said to bring it back on Monday...HUH, not if ANOTHER FORD dealership can get it done sooner! DUH.