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I don't know if they will last any longer, as i have not used them do to cost, and i have not seen any reports as to longevity by anyone who has used them. Maybe someone that has used them will come along and educate all of us. Many times i replace the whole fixture for about the same price as a new ballast, just depends how much i can buy them for at the time.
I believe that a trailer has to put more stress on these fixtures do to vibration, temperature extremes, dust etc... The standard 48", two lamp (FT40 bulb), 120V fixture was designed to be placed in a building, using standard power from the electric company, not bounced down a highway and run off a generator.
Now I'am not implying that all generators are hard on electrical components, it depends on the line conditioners, power stabilizers, grounding system etc.. in the generator or electrical distribution system. Most of the power we have in our homes has run through line conditioners, power stabilizers, good grounding systems etc. and is clean stabile power. Generator power can vary for many reasons, sometimes shortening the life electical components that are plugged into it.
IMO Tim i believe that once you get a chance to trouble shoot your bad fixtures and isolate the problem, then repair or replace the defective part(s) your fixtures will work correctly without the noise and flicker. And yes as parts wear out in the future you will have to replace them. I don't think you will get the longevity in run time with the fixtures in your trailer that you would get if those same fixtures were installed in your house. Just my $.02
Again I thank you a ton, I am not very efficient when it comes to 110 type of electrics.
Not that I am a wiz at any other………….With this information I can feel confident in a direction to go. I will work on it soon.
Take care
Well, got back form my trip, and at 90 degrees two of the four footers in the front will not come on at all.........back 4's and 8's were OK.
Tim,
Check the easy stuff first, bad bulbs or bulb sockets, then look for any loose wiring connections. If it is nothing simple, then I'am thinking bad ballast. Definitely not a temperature problem.
Since this is a new trailer, are these fixtures still under warranty?
Check the easy stuff first, bad bulbs or bulb sockets, then look for any loose wiring connections. If it is nothing simple, then I'am thinking bad ballast. Definitely not a temperature problem.
Since this is a new trailer, are these fixtures still under warranty?
Good luck
Well……..I am thinking by the time you send it all back and start over it is probably easier to just go get new ones……..however with both not working it has got to be a “loose” problem!
Hey Tim, just a thought but could there be to much amperage draw for the circuit in the trailer? Not sure if this would cause a buzzing noise but if the lights draw 20 amps and the circuit is a 15 amp unless there is a surge they will try to work. Not sure if that could be your problem but it might be something else to consider. You recently purchased this trailer also, so if it was ordered from the dealer this way they should be responsible and take care of the problem under warranty. All the trailers that I sell here are set up for 12 volt florescent lights, this way they work off of a battery.
If you try to run a 20 amp circuit on a 15 amp set up, it won't work, they will just fry everything, so there is either a loose connection in a branch or the ballasts are bad.
with both not working it has got to be a “loose” problem!
Tim,
Have to agree with a loose connection or broken wire.
Are these the two lights that were also previously buzzing or were the buzzing lights some of the lights that are still working?
Originally Posted by Tim Lamkin
Well……..I am thinking by the time you send it all back and start over it is probably easier to just go get new ones……..
Probably more trouble than it is worth to send it all back, i was thinking along the lines of the trailer manufacture being a local business near you, and you could just drop the trailer by and let them find the problem.
Tim,
Have to agree with a loose connection or broken wire.
Are these the two lights that were also previously buzzing or were the buzzing lights some of the lights that are still working?
Probably more trouble than it is worth to send it all back, i was thinking along the lines of the trailer manufacture being a local business near you, and you could just drop the trailer by and let them find the problem.
Good luck
The lights that buzzed never did on this trip, temps over 98 so no issue in the back of the trailer, just the front. The two in front are on the same circuit. The generator is an Onan 5.5kw, CME (commercial) going to the gen I can find no issues, the lights I will take apart this weekend. Even at over 100 they would not come on.
I would start checking at the lights and trace back to the switch, then from the switch to the fuse/load center box. I definitely do not believe the generator is the issue. That is a good unit and the other electrical items in the trailer are working.
If you don't see any loose connections at the fixtures initially then check for power and/or continuity with a multimeter at the fixture supply wires. Then keep checking the circuit back to its origin until you find power.
Nice trailer. If you still haven't found any problems with the wiring and think it's the light fixtures themself, I have an idea. I installed T8 32 watt 4' shop lights in my garage. These lights use an electronic ballast and will start easier in the cold. I can't remember the temperature rating, but it was about 30 degrees cooler than the standard lights. I was also able to get them fairly inexpensively at Home Depot, ~$14.00. You have to remember these were simple shop light fixtures, but complete T8 fixtures with diffuser covers were less than $50. They will also comsume less power than the 40 watt ones you are currently using.
Maybe Blackhat620 can offer some more info on these bulbs/fixtures. Hope this helps.