ok i need to get a pyro since i got a edge module but i wonder
if maybe just maybe instead of a pyro if i put in a straight pipe
it would lower my egt's enough that i wouldnt have to worry
about getting anything too hot?

 

I agree that the Pyro Kits are too high. But I also know that 160 bucks or so is nothing compared to a motor replacement. I have the autometer pyro, also have straight 4" and still have to be careful sometimes. Just bite the bullet and get the gage. You will sleep much better at night.

NUKE

 

Hey I just noticed that you are from whitney. I grew up over there and live over in clifton now. Its a small world.....

 

Advise STRONGLY against shortcutting the gauges just because of cost. It may end up costing you more in the long run. (Everyone here will tell you that)

Lower horsepower ratings are almost always ok as far as EGT goes, but from what I've seen from drivers of performance fuel modules, once you use the 'ultra high horsepower' setting, you'll never want to use any lower setting. (Coming from a nitrous oxide junkie.)

FYI, I've got the Stinger Plus system on my '95. With the 85 horsepower chip, I cannot get the EGT above 1100 degrees. It won't do it. Not saying that a more aggressive chip with the same horsepower rating (Banks vs. Brand X) will net safe EGT but you never know.........taking chances.

Cody

 

Yes pyrometers are expensive and yes you need one! Like others have said - it really is CHEAP insurance!! Think about how bummed you'd be if you're truck has to sit 'cause you need a motor, or at least some major parts.... Yea - now go buy that pyro!

 

Why do people complain about the cost of guages after spending so much on other mods such as programmer/chips and exhaust. The small price of guages to protect your investment is nothing.

 

Cleatus12r,
Where is your thermo couple that you can not get EGT of 1100?
I have an IDI reman with stock fuel settings from the remanufacturer and I can see 1100 pre turbo real easy.
My thermo couple is in the exhaust manifold just before the crossover pipe connection.

In my opinion if a diesel has a turbo, it has the capability to make to much heat for the pistons at stock fuel settings. I am a retired over the road truck driver, so I have seen and driven several diesel motors.

Dieselstroke,
Go price a turbo or new motor, then look at the pyrometer price again. When you put it in the proper perspective the pyrometer has the potential to be cheap even if it cost 1000 dollars. I got an Isspro from USDiesel for about 120 including shipping.

 

well i ordered one last night, on itp diesel i got a phantom autometer
pyro gauge kit it comes everything needed for installation except the
gauge pod all for 135+shipping=147.00. Not bad i geuss, it's a lot cheaper
than a turbo or new heads or valve's etc etc lol.

 

so you live in clifton nuclearmonster. It is a small world, heh. The other day
I got to talking to this guy and i found out he lived at
clifton and he does custom cabinet work all around whitney

 

I agree with nuclearmonster, the cost of gauges may seem high but it's certianly less than a new diesel engine.

 

Dave Sponaugle,
I would NEVER put a thermocouple upstream of the turbo. Why? Because in the rare but very possible event that the probe melted/broke off, where does the piece go? RIGHT INTO THE TURBINE! There goes your turbo. Besides, research has shown that on average, the temperature difference between the tubine inlet and outlet is about 250-300 degrees.
Cody

 

cleatus12r,
I am retired from 13 years over the road tractor trailer ( about 3,500,000 miles) and several years in smaller diesels with pre turbo pyrometers. I have never lost a turbo or pyrometer due to the thermo couple tip breaking off. I have always used Isspro pyrometers and thermo couples. If they will stand up to a 14 liter diesel putting 600 HP to the ground, I think a 7.3 and the 200 - 300 HP bracket is a piece of cake.

I have seen several diesel motors destroyed due to no pyrometer in the above mentioned time.

 

cleatus12r, I have to agree with Dave on this point. A post-turbo pyro probe will not give you an actual reading. All it will do is help you to make an educated guess. Remember, the pyro is there to protect the engine, not the turbo. A new turbo costs a lot less than a new engine. There have also been very few instances of a probe breaking off and passing through the turbo. If this does happen from excess heat you have other major problems to worry about with the engine anyway.

 

cleatus12r,
Just had a thought as I posted the last message.
If you are running your pyrometer after the turbo, you should never see much over 950 on your pyrometer.

1100 + 275 = 1375 or 125 degrees over where your pistons started melting and 100 degrees over where your turbo exhaust fan blades started melting and straightening out. And I personally think 250 is a conservative pre /post turbo temp difference. 300 is probably closer.
With pre turbo there is no question, no conversion, no calculation.

 

No matter where your probe is mounted, the pyro will help. Ideally, it would be best to mount it pre turbo, but post turbo still gives a good monitoring of your EGT's. The temp range is just changed. Instead of letting 1100 to 1200 degrees be your watch point, 800 to 900 degrees has to be your watch point on a post turbo. And another thing for sure, IF mounting pre turbo, whether drilling, welding , or whatever, there is always a chance that metal or other particles can be inside the exhaust pipe and get blown into the turbo. Same with a rare occurence of the probe itself actually breaking apart and blowing some pieces into the turbo. On a post turbo, about the worst that can happen is the drilling, welding, broken probe pieces blow into the muffler. Its hard to say how much damage a bb size piece of metal will do to a turbo impeller spinning several thousand RPM's. How much damage to the muffler?

Which setup has the highest egt monitoring with the lowest risk?