Oil Pan Leaks!
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Joined: May 2002
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Oil Pan Leaks!
Well, it just started... that steady drip, drip, drip from a totally paint peeling rusted oil pan. I checked the plug to make sure it was tight. My question is... I've got the 351 5.8L (H code) and was wondering if I can tackle this myself or does the motor need to be lifted or anything crazy like that.
Any suggestions on where to get the new one?
Thanks,
Any suggestions on where to get the new one?
Thanks,
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 473
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From: Richmond, CA
Because the gasket is a real pain to replace. There is so little space between engine and crossmember that the pan will not come completely off. I have had to replace mine and lifting the engine helps a little, but not much.
Last edited by tite4x4; Apr 22, 2004 at 11:11 PM. Reason: misspelling
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: SE Texas
DO a search for oil pan repair. You will find out how difficult it is to replace it, you do need to lift the motor up enough to get the pan clear of the crossmember. First try to find where the oil is coming from, it could just be leaking valve cover gaskets, or coming from the bolts that hold the pan. If it has surface rust, though, prolly will need to get a new pan. I bought mine from the local salvage yard, but it was new-in-the-box for under $100!
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The gasket is dry... it's leaking out the bottom of the pan. Rusted from the outside in I'd assume. I checked the drain plug. I'm gonna check with the local mechanic to see how much he'll charge before tackling this one. I've done the ball joints and that took me almost a week. My main concern is I don't know how to jack up the motor properly.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Surrey BC
I've done this job and it was terrible. Even after jacking the engine up to the firewall, the pan wouldn't clear the crossmember. I did everything by feel including replacing the oil pump for new. When I got to the rear main seal, I discovered that it was a two piece seal. You need some special tool to push out the top part, it was about 3 am, I figured " what's the odds", yup............ it leaks. I'd gladly pay someone to do it next time. It is a crappy job to do.
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My mechanic says it's a 5 hour job at $70.00 per hour. $350 labor; ouch. He says he done a bunch them. He says that they corrode from the inside out. Motor oil is pretty nasty stuff.
-Bill
-Bill
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 473
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From: Richmond, CA
I just change the pan gasket and the front brakes(rotors & pads) on my neibors Suburban. Parts & labor I only charged $460. 5 hours sounds about right. But changing the gasket still a greasy mess and a pain to do, Just like our rigs.
I'm going to change mine soon in my 90' Bronco. Cause I have oil leaks too, also from my valve covers and intake gaskets.
Heat is also another factor on why they bad.
I'm going to change mine soon in my 90' Bronco. Cause I have oil leaks too, also from my valve covers and intake gaskets.
Heat is also another factor on why they bad.
Last edited by tite4x4; Apr 25, 2004 at 09:32 PM.
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