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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 07:09 PM
  #16  
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14 bolts are strong, but they are real pigs. Despertly need to be shaved. Why do you want a bj 60 cwb?

edit for the confused: Dana 70s are always stronger than Dana 60s, front or rear. ALTHOUGH, Dana 70 fronts are not that desireable because of their old school closed knuckle and shaft design that makes them only marginally stronger when compared to a newer high pinion Dana 60 front. This is why most guys run either D60s up front, or jump straight to rockwells. In the case of rear axles, 60s can't touch a 70.
 

Last edited by proeliator; Apr 22, 2004 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cwb
Yeah, right after they find me a front 60 with ball joints and drivers drop for free!
why ball joint?

-jason-
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:44 PM
  #18  
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I think the 14 bolt is one of the better off road axles... cheap, can come with 4.56 gears from the factory, and they have a spanner setup inside, but the fact that they are heavy, have no clearance, and they are chevy, I'll stick with my Sterling...

Don't closed knuckle 70s use u-joints the size of dana 44s?

btw, are balljoint 60s any better / worse than kingpin 60s?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:45 PM
  #19  
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kingpin are stronger and last longer but are a pain to fix when they go bad!

-jason-
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:57 PM
  #20  
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Proeliator, I won't argue with you about the 70 vs 60 rear axles, I know they are stronger, I was refering to the fronts, and it would be hard to compare A 60 front to a 70 front becuase I have only seen one 70 front and it was in a 68 dodge and it had the big five lug bolt pattern, I was only refering to my own 70 front creation, and to get everyone on the same page there, it is infact a 70 rear with the spindles cut off and 60 knuckles installed the axles shafts I am using are late 80's early 90's F-350 and the inner splines will fit in the 70 side gears, which is irelevent because I had to use two long side axles and have them shortend & resplined any way, now the outer stub axles I would not even know if they are compairable between a 60 and 70, my plan is to use the smaller stock 60 shafts until I have a problem with them then install the 35 spline stubs,
sorry to everyone if I caused confusion, the only thing I can say is I was talking about my own D70 front diff, and other than the ring and pinion and possibly the housing, It will not be significanly stronger than the average D60, front from a late 80's & up F-350 I just used it becuase I had the housing and a detroit locker and wanted a centered pumpkin,
 

Last edited by Skipped_link; Apr 22, 2004 at 09:05 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 09:09 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Skipped_link
Proeliator, I won't argue with you about the 70 vs 60 rear axles, I know they are stronger, I was refering to the fronts, and it would be hard to compare A 60 front to a 70 front becuase I have only seen one 70 front and it was in a 68 dodge and it had the big five lug bolt pattern, I was only refering to my own 70 front creation, and to get everyone on the same page there, it is infact a 70 rear with the spindles cut off and 60 knuckles installed the axles shafts I am using are late 80's early 90's F-350 and the inner splines will fit in the 70 side gears, which is irelevent because I had to use two long side axles and have them shortend & resplined any way, now the outer stub axles I would not even know if they are compairable between a 60 and 70, my plan is to use the smaller stock 60 shafts until I have a problem with them then install the 35 spline stubs,
sorry to everyone if I caused confusion, the only thing I can say is I was talking about my own D70 front diff, and other than the ring and pinion and possibly the housing, It will not be significanly stronger than the average D60, front from a late 80's & up F-350 I just used it becuase I had the housing and a detroit locker and wanted a centered pumpkin,
Wow thats alot of fabrication, sounds very interesting! If you have some pics I would love to see this axle.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 09:27 PM
  #22  
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95-F-350-4x4 I just uploaded some more pics of the front diff, go to my gallery and and look in the 1949 F1 4x4 album and the last 3 pics are the front diff, if you look closely you will see there are no axle shafts in the housing, as I mentioned before I had to have them shortend and resplined, and I have not got them back from the machine shop yet,
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 09:39 PM
  #23  
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where does the driveshaft boltup to?

ie, what kinda tcase are you going to use.?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #24  
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The t-case will be all custome aswell, aluminum housing with NP205 bearings it will run triple 60 roller chain and bolt right to the t-case adapter where the 205 use to,
the front and rear ouput shaft will be one piece so it will be a full unit but for the mud it will work alright, I have most of the pieces to built it but I haven't gotten that far yet, It takes a long time to complete a project that about 70% has to fabricated,
 
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #25  
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Its cool, Skip. Yea, it was tough to know whether we were talking about front or rears, and it gets weird talking about the fronts since Ford didn't have them. Damn, you put allot of hard work into your front axle! Seriously cool on the '49...if I ever totally mangle my body I'd like to find something like that to throw on my frame.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 09:31 AM
  #26  
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Hmmmm......is Fishman right? If so, then I don't know. I have a bunch of spare bj parts, including crossover knuckles and other stuff because I have the bj 60 on the front of my 350. I want it for my jeep I have considered selling my 350 and getting something smaller and using my locked and geared axles in the heep.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 09:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Skipped_link
95-F-350-4x4 I just uploaded some more pics of the front diff, go to my gallery and and look in the 1949 F1 4x4 album and the last 3 pics are the front diff, if you look closely you will see there are no axle shafts in the housing, as I mentioned before I had to have them shortend and resplined, and I have not got them back from the machine shop yet,
Man that front axle looks stout as heck! Was it hard to truss it? I heard if not done right trussing an axle can actually weaken it.

All this talk about axles made me really wonder if I had a dana 60 under my truck. I was scarred when I was seacrching the web and found out I could have a dana 50 under there! So I got the codes for all the axles off the web and looked under my truck last night and yes it is a dana 60. Thank God! Its ball jointed and not kingpinned but I can really care less because they are easier to rebuild.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 11:05 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 95-F-350-4x4
The 14 bolts are strong, to bad its a Chevy axel!
In all honesty, though, even though the 14-bolt has been historically known to be a 'Chevy' corporate axle, the 14-bolt is no more Chevy specific than the Dana is to any other company. Dana's come in all different shapes and sizes and are only used because they were contracted to supply the parts. The same company that makes the GM 'corporate' axle is a company called AAM, who, BTW, also makes the newest generation axles that Dodge also uses. AAM also supplied the 10 and 12 bolt axles, but since everyone else used Dana, the other axles were just specified 'corporate' specific to the company.

That's the arguement I use when someone starts whipping me autolite about having a 'chevy' axle in my Ford.

Off my soapbox...
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 11:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cwb
Hmmmm......is Fishman right?
Yes, he is. Kingpins are stronger than balljoints, but they are also more of a pita to rebuild. Its not that bjs are weak per se, just that most of us who swap in a front 60 want every ounce of strength so stick with the kingpins. Plus, they are an easier swap in most of our rigs.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 12:02 PM
  #30  
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Well, I still don't have any damn money so it doesn't really matter right now Thanks though,now I know.
 
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