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Right now, I have the topend of my motor tore down due to some valve problems. Is there a " Low Tech" way to determine what shape your cam is in? This all started because I had a ticking in the valve train I couldn't get rid of. Turns out the person who did the previous valve job didn"t do a real good job of it, and I wound up with some bad intake valves. After a call to Dennis at DSC, I'll have some " New " C1AE's by the time I'm done with my heads. New valves, and adj rocker assemblys. I pulled the lifters one by one, and the base of the lifters look good, but what do I look for when I'm shining a light down the lifter bore looking at the cam lobe? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks, Al
A flat cam lobe will be sort of obvious if it has had time to wear down. The best way to judge is by looking at the lifters. If they are flat and shiny then you have a good lifter. If it is starting to get a bowl shape on the bottom you have a flat lobe.
Typically, if the lifters are in good shape (slightly domed out--not flat or concave where it contacts the cam), then the cam is in good shape.
I repeat, typically. It is difficult to inspect a cam installed in the block looking through lifter bores. It needs to be cleaned and in good light to check for wear patterns.
True, a straight edge or a flat plate will help with that nude eye of your's.
Make sure with the lifters that you put them in the same bores you took them out of or get new ones if not sure. Otherwise, you will be needing to replace the cam.
That's what the cam in my first 390 did ... and wiped everything else out with it - the oil looked like moly lube
I had used a block that sat in the corner of my machinist's place after someone never gave the deposit to start the rebuild. Who knows where it came from... I went and got a running 360 from a junky that hadn't already been touched, made sure everything was moving well by the wear patterns, and it worked fine... and I got to spend more on the motor the second time around
As to the original question: Ditto, if the lifter bottoms all look the same, and are mostly shiny with a little "matte" finish in the center, I think that's perfect...
Make sure the wear pattern on the bottom of the lifter is ROUND... if it's rectangular or out-of-round, the lifter is not rotating consistently in the bore, and you'll have mucho problems down the line.
Thanks for the replys Guy. It looks like I'll be in good shape. I was going to replace the lifters anyways since its allready tore down. Found a D4TE block at the machine shop that someone brought in and never picked up, price? How about $25, which includes fitting my pistons, what a deal. So, get the truck running now so I can build some decks this summer, and work on piecing together a shortblock for this winter. I want to take this time to thank you all, I don't post much, but I'm allways picking up tips and info thats very helpfull. Not at all like the look I get at autozone when they ask what you got, and you tell them a '63 Ford p/u with a 390. Can't be, it aint in the computer! Thanks Guys, Al
hey i got the same combo. so i know the look you get at the parts store, i have an imaginary 66 f-250 that i need parts for. i should have spent more time looking on the boards i would have a galaxy or another car with high comp ratio.
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