do it with power
Rebuilding 351W
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Give me coffee - Or beer!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 746
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From: Who cares?
Rebuilding 351W
OK, if you have seen my posts you know that I have been trying to make a decision on new carb, rebuild engine and change to EFI. Well, with all the great help from this most excelent forum I have made up my mind.
1. I am going to get my carb right if I have to rebuild it 20 times!
2. I am going to rebuild my engine this summer. I'll have lots to ask about this project!
3. I am going to redo the interior.
4. I am going to paint it.
5. I am going to go bankrupt.
What the heck? Could be fun!
While looking at parts and kits for rebuilding the engine I am asked for Ring sizes, main bearing size, rod bearings see this link to see what I'm talking about.
How would I know without tearing down the motor first and micing the shafts etc?
Thanks for your input.
1. I am going to get my carb right if I have to rebuild it 20 times!
2. I am going to rebuild my engine this summer. I'll have lots to ask about this project!
3. I am going to redo the interior.
4. I am going to paint it.
5. I am going to go bankrupt.
What the heck? Could be fun!
While looking at parts and kits for rebuilding the engine I am asked for Ring sizes, main bearing size, rod bearings see this link to see what I'm talking about.
How would I know without tearing down the motor first and micing the shafts etc?
Thanks for your input.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 0
From: SE Texas
When rebuilding a motor, I like to take the block to a reputable machine shop to have it checked for cracks and get them to bore out the cylinders, re-surface the deck, overhaul the heads, etc. If you tell them to bore the cylinders 0.030 over, then the new pistons and rings will be for that size. If you have the crankshaft turned 0.010, then the new main bearings will be for that size. If you buy a new crankshaft (they aren't too expensive), just get the mains for it from the parts house. You can mic it to doublecheck you have the right parts before you assemble the motor.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 3
From: GANS
DO NOT bore a Windsor .060 over, unless it is an older (early 70s) or an aftermarket block. It will overheat.
the other thing is about the carb. Buy a new one. Even if you rebuild a carb 20 times, if the body is shot, it will always run crappy.
the other thing is about the carb. Buy a new one. Even if you rebuild a carb 20 times, if the body is shot, it will always run crappy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,388
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From: SE Texas
I agree with bremen242 on both points. In general for a daily driver, I would only machine what is necessary to get rid of any burrs or ridges, and 0.030" is a general guideline. If you go more than that on a stock block, you do run the risk of overheating, since the thickness between the cylinders is reduced. The older Holley carbs can handle a few overhauls, but then get so worn out that they leak gas. A reman. or new aftermarket carb is less than $500, too.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
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From: Oregon
tear down your block, then take the bare block (with the crank, and main caps) to your machine shop. ask your machinist to hot tank and magnaflux the block. (hot tanking cleans and magnaflux checks the block integrity). then the machinist will measure the bore and the cranks rod and main journals. Every machinist I have met will not touch a block with a mic unless its clean.
then you will know what size of pistons to buy, they will need the pistons to finish the bore. You might need the crank ground, last two cranks I had done cost me around $80 each. (way cheaper than a new crank)
then you will know what size of pistons to buy, they will need the pistons to finish the bore. You might need the crank ground, last two cranks I had done cost me around $80 each. (way cheaper than a new crank)
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
oops, forgot to mention. Do not over bore the motor more than nescisary. do the bare minimum to rebuild. Who knows what block availibility will be like when its time for the next rebuild.
also the overheating can be an issue. Although I am running a .060 over bore on a late 70's 351w and I run around 190* and around 200* while going uphill. this was on a freshly rebuilt motor and towing my 67 mustang.
long story, but here is the skinny. I moved from New Mexico to Oregon last year I was driving my truck and towing my car. I made it 60 miles before the motor in my truck died. So I pulled the 351w from my car which I had just rebuilt (zero miles) and put it into my truck. I drove 1200 miles towing the car through new mexico, arizona, california and Oregon. passing through all the mountains as I went without an overheating problem.
also the overheating can be an issue. Although I am running a .060 over bore on a late 70's 351w and I run around 190* and around 200* while going uphill. this was on a freshly rebuilt motor and towing my 67 mustang.
long story, but here is the skinny. I moved from New Mexico to Oregon last year I was driving my truck and towing my car. I made it 60 miles before the motor in my truck died. So I pulled the 351w from my car which I had just rebuilt (zero miles) and put it into my truck. I drove 1200 miles towing the car through new mexico, arizona, california and Oregon. passing through all the mountains as I went without an overheating problem.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2004
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yeah, about that overheating thing. what do you think they make fan shrouds and electric fans for huh? add those two items to a good water pump and a high temp. thermostat and you should not overheat no matter if you did build it over 0.60. so try again.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,739
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From: GANS
Sure thats fine, but when you crack a ring or have to re-ring the block, guess what? you can't bore it .080 over. Plus, you are not getting more than a couple HP (if that) and a good chance to something go wrong.
btw, its .060 not .60. if you bored your motor .60, you'd be taking over a half of an inch out of each cylinder.
btw, its .060 not .60. if you bored your motor .60, you'd be taking over a half of an inch out of each cylinder.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Originally Posted by bremen242
Sure thats fine, but when you crack a ring or have to re-ring the block, guess what? you can't bore it .080 over. Plus, you are not getting more than a couple HP (if that) and a good chance to something go wrong.
btw, its .060 not .60. if you bored your motor .60, you'd be taking over a half of an inch out of each cylinder.
btw, its .060 not .60. if you bored your motor .60, you'd be taking over a half of an inch out of each cylinder.
agreed.
if you are concerned about building power, then there are way smarter ways to do it that do not limit the life of the block.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34
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yeah, i made a typo so what. listen i am not going to argue about it , let the man do what he wants. If he wants bore it so let him if not and thats fine too. i just give him my opinion and thats all. No harm done there i hope i didnt make any enemies by doing so.
Last edited by dave62380; Apr 26, 2004 at 10:53 AM. Reason: made a mistake
Thread Starter
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Give me coffee - Or beer!
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Who cares?
Thanks for everyone's input. I didn't realize I was starting a firestorm of controversy over the boring. I agree with Hungrymonkey about doing the bare minimum. May have to do it again before I throw the thing away.
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