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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 07:31 PM
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Window leak?

After 2 days of heavy rain I found water in my passenger side wheel well. Luckily it stayed in the little gully right inside the door. I looked for wetness under the dash but couldnt find any. I'm thinking maybe it is coming from the slider. Can someone tell me where the water comes in the sliders when they leak? Is it the rubber seal around the window or in the seam where the window slides? Thanks Jordan
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 12:01 AM
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Usually when the rear window leaks the water does end up in the rocker panels like you said. The window leaks around the outside. Ford came up with a "gusset seal" to help seal it. You have to remove the window, replace the butyl seal (sorta like weatherstrip) and add the gusset seal.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 12:06 AM
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Thanks Racerguy, It's supposed to be nice this weekend. I'm going to give it the hose test to be sure where it is. Where can you purchase the gusset you were talking about? Is that a dealer item? Thanks Will check it out.
 

Last edited by 98 4.6 locked up; Apr 15, 2004 at 12:16 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 12:12 AM
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Yes it's a dealer item. Your dealer should also have the butyl seal too. While you're there see if they can print you off a copy of TSB # 01-1-11 so you have the instructions for doing it.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 07:06 AM
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I had a leaky rear slider last fall. The plastic window frame had a hairline crack in it. I fixed it by following TSB #01-1-11. It has worked so far. You'll have to get the gusset seal from a dealer. I think it was around $40.00. The butyl sealent is another $10.00. The gusset seal pretty much encapsulates most of the window frame so unless you have a pretty hardy crack the gusset seal should work. You will have to completely remove the entire window frame to do the fix but it is not that difficult, just follow the TSB. The key is the TSB, when I first went to the dealer for the gusset seal they had no idea what I was talking about until I showed them the part number from the TSB. Also, it doesn't seem like they did the best job at the factory when they installed the butyl seal (weatherstrip), so that is somesthing to look at also.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 09:18 AM
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Thanks Stantojl. How did your engine replacement go? Mine went good and I am working out some bugs in the electrical system. Had to replace fusebox and GEM. Found an awesome salvage yard about a half hour away with dozens if F-150's. I think everything is good to go now Except 4x4 and window. Hope yours went well.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 09:29 AM
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hmmmm you replaced the GEM. Did you make sure you got one for a 4x4 with ESOF (turn the **** 4x4)?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 10:07 AM
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Yes, I did get the one with ESOF. I made that mistake with the first one I got. After I got it I called the dealer to check part #'s and thats when I found out it wouldn't work. It is now sitting peacefully on E-BAY. Today I pulled the plug off the back of the **** and checked voltage. three were 0 and 1 was about 5v. Isn't this supposed to be 12v. Could this 5v be some bleed thru on a ground. What fuses should I be checking? The only thing I could find in book is fuse 23 10A. Are there any relays?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 03:06 PM
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Hey 98 4.6 locked up, I have the new engine in and it is about ready to go. My wife had a baby acouple weeks ago so it is taking me a little longer than expected. I should be ready to fire it up on sunday. I am ready to prime the engine. How did you prime yours?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 03:44 PM
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Congratulations Stantojl on the little one. Hope your engine
works great.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 06:27 PM
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Thanks, hope the truck turns out as good as the baby. Still haven't pulled the old engine apart to see what went wrong. I'll get to that when I get the new one running.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 07:30 PM
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In the underhood fuse box fuse 17 (30A) is for the transfer case shift relay module.
Fuse 23 under the dash is for the transfer case clutch relay.
The relays are under the top cover of the dash if I remember right. I seem to recall that they are hard to get at too.
I believe that the switch has 5V to it from the GEM.
You can check the resistance of the switch on pins 2 and 3. In 2H there should be 3700-4100 ohms, 4H is 1050-1150, 4L is 340-380.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 11:54 PM
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Hey Stantojl, to prime mine I filled it with oil and turned the key with my fingers crossed. And thanks Racerguy. I will check these things tomorrow.
 

Last edited by 98 4.6 locked up; Apr 15, 2004 at 11:58 PM.
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