Bare metal priming
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 52
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From: Bemidji, MN
Bare metal priming
I have just sanded all the paint off of my truck right down to the bare metal, for two reasons:
1.) It had around 5 very thick coats of paint.
2.) there were some scratches right down thru the paint and into the metal.
I had to use 80 grit at first and thinking of moving to 120, then 220, then 320.
My question is: What would be the best primer to spray on it? And what is the best way to get rid of the surface rust that is on the scratches?
1.) It had around 5 very thick coats of paint.
2.) there were some scratches right down thru the paint and into the metal.
I had to use 80 grit at first and thinking of moving to 120, then 220, then 320.
My question is: What would be the best primer to spray on it? And what is the best way to get rid of the surface rust that is on the scratches?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
When I strip a vehicle, I start with 32 and finish up with 80. I don't see any reason to go any finer. At this point, I would....
1) Treat the bare metal with a rust converter. Rust Mort, Metal Ready (by Por 15), and Picklex are just three of the many brands.
2) Spray on one medium coat of epoxy primer. This will seal in any micro-rust and seal out any water.
3) Filler work (AKA Bondo).
4) 2K filler primer. This will take care any scratches in your metal.
When I strip a vehicle, I start with 32 and finish up with 80. I don't see any reason to go any finer. At this point, I would....
1) Treat the bare metal with a rust converter. Rust Mort, Metal Ready (by Por 15), and Picklex are just three of the many brands.
2) Spray on one medium coat of epoxy primer. This will seal in any micro-rust and seal out any water.
3) Filler work (AKA Bondo).
4) 2K filler primer. This will take care any scratches in your metal.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
You got it. It's a 2-part paint and usually refers to a high build filler primer with a hardener.
Easy to sand. I usually apply it and then apply a contrasting guidecoat. Then I blocksand. Low spots in my work show up like a sore thumb.
You got it. It's a 2-part paint and usually refers to a high build filler primer with a hardener.
Easy to sand. I usually apply it and then apply a contrasting guidecoat. Then I blocksand. Low spots in my work show up like a sore thumb.
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia
Another option would be to use RM (BASF product) Polyuroxy primer. It's self etching AND a high build. It's not cheap, but saves time. I've used it a few times now and really like it. One thing is for sure, regardless of the choice you make, preparation is everything! The final coat of clear is only as good as the work you are about to do. Make sure the surface to be coated are clean, dry and room temp.. Applying a catalized coating to a very cold panel with any kind of moisture on it can trap the moisture between the coating and the panel. As the coating cures, heat is generated. This heat can turn the moisture to vapour and cause blistering and in severe cases delamination. 
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Ben, tell me more about this polyuroxy primer. It sounds very interesting. Product number, a p-sheet link, price, & etc. Anything you have.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia
AEKISU. I have a product sheet but it's a .pdf. I can't paste it here, and I have under 15 posts, so I can't email it to you. Otherwise:
It's an R-M Product. It's their EP line of primers. To use as a primer surfacer, you mix with UA97 Polyuroxy Activator and DH49 Hardener (4:2:1) DO NOT GUESS. MIX EXACTLY.
It's great over steel, but does need DE18 etch over bare aluminum. Cost: I think the last Gal., including Activator and Hardener I bought was around $300.00 Canadian. That will cover about 280 Square Feet with a grav. feed HVLP, 1.6 tip and enough air. It's pretty steep. But it's premium and I can skip a few product applications. And it dries in 3 hours at 68.
One word of caution, it is STRONG stuff. 3m N100 respirator and eye protection in a well vented area minimum. Fresh air and a booth prefered.
It's an R-M Product. It's their EP line of primers. To use as a primer surfacer, you mix with UA97 Polyuroxy Activator and DH49 Hardener (4:2:1) DO NOT GUESS. MIX EXACTLY.
It's great over steel, but does need DE18 etch over bare aluminum. Cost: I think the last Gal., including Activator and Hardener I bought was around $300.00 Canadian. That will cover about 280 Square Feet with a grav. feed HVLP, 1.6 tip and enough air. It's pretty steep. But it's premium and I can skip a few product applications. And it dries in 3 hours at 68.
One word of caution, it is STRONG stuff. 3m N100 respirator and eye protection in a well vented area minimum. Fresh air and a booth prefered.
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