In my '85 F-250 is a 351w with the stock Holley 4bbl carburetor.

Adding to my dislike of carburetors, it is hard to start and I believe the problem is the choke. Unfortunately, I have to admit I'm not the best at carburetors (but otherwise am knowledgeable automotive-wise), so I need a little help.

I have no idea whether I have an electric (auto?) or manual choke. All I know is I have to give it a bunch of gas before it'll start cold. Once it's started, if I shift into any drive gear before it feels like it, it'll die. Once it's warmed up, it'll start up right away with no problem, and shift to my heart's delight.

Sounds like choke to me, but like I said, I need some help here. I know someone here will be able to help me, so thanks in advance.

 

Carburetors can be pesky things, but I have experience with them. My '86 F-150 has the 351W with the 49-state High-Output option, which means it has the Holley 4bbl instead of the 2bbl. Your 4bbl should be the same as mine. Ford used the Holley 4180C, an emissions version of their 4160. As to your choke, it is automatic, in that it comes of choke by itself according to engine and intake air temperature as opposed to using a push/pull cable in pre-emission days, although you have to set it "manually" to start by pushing on the gas pedal. A spring then releases a cam, allowing a spring to pull the choke closed.
Once the engine is started, the primary means of choke pull-off is is engine vacuum applied to a diaphragm with a linkage connecting it to the choke plate--this is the metal plate that closes off the primary (front two venturies), causing the needed fuel-rich mixture for start-up. Some carbs use an external vacuum line for this. The 4180C uses an internal port on the underside of the carb, so you can't see it. In order to keep the choke from pulling off too fast, an electrically heated spring is used to regulate pull-off time. If you take off your air cleaner, you should see this on the passenger side of your carb. It is a round, black plastic thing with a wire going to it. There should be voltage to this wire as long as the truck is running. It sounds like your choke is sticking open; check the choke plate for the brown gummy deposits that often form around carb throats. Spray affected parts with carb cleaner and make shure choke can move freely. A couple drops of 3-in-1 oil or WD-40 applied to the moving linkage points after cleaning will help. Choke should immediatly snap closed with truck off and cold when accelerator pedel is pushed to the floor and released. If not, something mechanical such as the connecting linkages are at fault, since the choke does not depend on anything electrical or vacuum operated to close. Hope this helps!

 

Mine was doing exactly the same thing as you describe. The problem is a dirty carb. As 86 windsor said, clean it good with a carb cleaner and lubricate the linkages. The wire from the choke goes directly to the alternator. Make sure the connection is good on both ends. Use a multimeter to check for voltage at the choke. When the truck starts the plate will open a little and you can watch the plate gradually open as the truck gets warmer. At normal operating temp the plate will be vertical.

You'll find a lot of discussion in this forum regarding that Holley carb. There seems to be a general consensus to throw it out and replace it with an Edlebrock. I will replace mine when I rebuild my 351W.

I rebuilt mine and it works great (except the float in the primary bowl sticks now and then and I have to tap it free just to restart the truck). Must have been a cheap part in the kit. Anyway, since I rebuilt the carb I stopped having the start and stall problem.

Good luck with yours.