Engine Pinging
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Engine Pinging
Hi To All Of The Ford Guys And Girls,
I Just Joined The Fte A Couple A Days Ago.this Is Neat Stuff.a Freind Of Mine Told Of This.alot Of Interesting Information Here.
I Own A 93 Explorer W/4.0 That Pings Alot When Engines Gets Up To Normal Operating Temp.alot When Working Up Hills And Some On The Level.has It To Our Dealer Twice.came Back With The Same Answer,carbon Biuld Up On The Pistons.i Really Dont Want To Believe This.does Anbody Else Have This Problem?i Dont Here To Much About This Problem.we Do Burn 10% Ethonal Fuel,which I Feel Should Be Better,higher Octane????if Any Body Has A Cure,let Me Know.
I Just Joined The Fte A Couple A Days Ago.this Is Neat Stuff.a Freind Of Mine Told Of This.alot Of Interesting Information Here.
I Own A 93 Explorer W/4.0 That Pings Alot When Engines Gets Up To Normal Operating Temp.alot When Working Up Hills And Some On The Level.has It To Our Dealer Twice.came Back With The Same Answer,carbon Biuld Up On The Pistons.i Really Dont Want To Believe This.does Anbody Else Have This Problem?i Dont Here To Much About This Problem.we Do Burn 10% Ethonal Fuel,which I Feel Should Be Better,higher Octane????if Any Body Has A Cure,let Me Know.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,085
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From: West Chester PA
Clean the maf sensor first. Here's what I did to finally rid my 94 of the pings... (not in any order)
1. clean maf sensor
2. replace fuel filter
3. torque lower intake manifold bolts
4. decarbon the engine
5. clean egr valve
6. new plugs/wires
7. check every vacum line you can find
The MAF sensor was the thing that worked best. Try a search in this forum. THere's lots of posts about the MAF.
1. clean maf sensor
2. replace fuel filter
3. torque lower intake manifold bolts
4. decarbon the engine
5. clean egr valve
6. new plugs/wires
7. check every vacum line you can find
The MAF sensor was the thing that worked best. Try a search in this forum. THere's lots of posts about the MAF.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
Welcome to FTE 
.
Item 1, 3 and 4 above are the most common (no particular order). If you look at the sticky in the Ranger forum, you will find out how to decarbon the engine (about $30 in materials). Ford issued a TSB detailing the process and I regurgitated the info some time ago. I think you will find details on how to clean the MAF in there too (about 25 cents worth of cleaner). If not, just do a search and it will surface. As for torquing the lower intake bolts, there are posts on that too (a freebie unless you need a new gasket which usually is not the case), but it's pretty straight forward.
.Item 1, 3 and 4 above are the most common (no particular order). If you look at the sticky in the Ranger forum, you will find out how to decarbon the engine (about $30 in materials). Ford issued a TSB detailing the process and I regurgitated the info some time ago. I think you will find details on how to clean the MAF in there too (about 25 cents worth of cleaner). If not, just do a search and it will surface. As for torquing the lower intake bolts, there are posts on that too (a freebie unless you need a new gasket which usually is not the case), but it's pretty straight forward.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Apr 11, 2004 at 03:06 PM.
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Hey thanks guys,I've been busy so I haven't been on the computer latley so I didn't see your responses.I did buy a can of seafoam to try.When i get some free time I will do those suggestions.thanks agian.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 100
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From: Sacramento, CA
I have a 93 explorer with a pinging problem, too.
I removed the octane shorting bar and the pinging stopped. No appreciable loss of power. It's located near the passenger side fender/firewall area. You just unplug it from its socket and your pinging will be gone. Seafoam should help too.
See Photos in my gallery of the location of the bar.
Chris
See quote from another forum (Ranger = Explorer):
Good Luck
I removed the octane shorting bar and the pinging stopped. No appreciable loss of power. It's located near the passenger side fender/firewall area. You just unplug it from its socket and your pinging will be gone. Seafoam should help too.
See Photos in my gallery of the location of the bar.
Chris
See quote from another forum (Ranger = Explorer):
Originally Posted by billz
I also posted my original message in the alt.trucks.ford newsgroup and got a few replies.
I found a thing in my Ranger's wiring diagram called an "EEC shorting bar". I found it located under the back of the fuse block on the passenger side front fender well, and removed it. It's a little gray rectangular thing, about 3/4" square by about 3/8" wide, plugged into a connector sticking out of the harness. Now it doesn't ping anymore. I checked it with a timing light and it seems to have retarded the timing by about 5 degrees.
The EEC shorting bar is also called an octane rod and there may be other names for it. I found it by looking at the wiring diagram showing the engine computer and looking for jumpers connecting two pins and looking at the signal names. Then it was a matter of finding where it was hidden.
I found a thing in my Ranger's wiring diagram called an "EEC shorting bar". I found it located under the back of the fuse block on the passenger side front fender well, and removed it. It's a little gray rectangular thing, about 3/4" square by about 3/8" wide, plugged into a connector sticking out of the harness. Now it doesn't ping anymore. I checked it with a timing light and it seems to have retarded the timing by about 5 degrees.
The EEC shorting bar is also called an octane rod and there may be other names for it. I found it by looking at the wiring diagram showing the engine computer and looking for jumpers connecting two pins and looking at the signal names. Then it was a matter of finding where it was hidden.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Your pinging will be gone by removing the spout connector because it locks the timing at base and takes the computed advance out of the picture. It will also set a code. Fix the problem, don't bypass the system. The spout connector is there to remove during timing set, not to be left out if there is a problem somewhere else.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Cameron, OK
I agree with cleaning up the carbon in the engine. I had pinging till I developed a manifold gasket leak. It gave me an opportunity to really clean up the intake especially around the injector ports that were nearly closed off with carbon build up. After I got it all cleaned up the engine has run great.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 71
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From: Cleveland, TN area.
Octane Adjust Shorting Bar C103, located at the rear rh corner of the engine compartment at the VIP test connector. It is used to retard the timing 3-4 deg.
Ignition Timing Connector C107, located at the rf corner of the engine compartment near the EDIS, is used to check the base timing of the engine.
Be careful not to get confused. They look the same just different locations and purpose.
Good Luck.
TomCarperNGiles
Ignition Timing Connector C107, located at the rf corner of the engine compartment near the EDIS, is used to check the base timing of the engine.
Be careful not to get confused. They look the same just different locations and purpose. Good Luck.
TomCarperNGiles
Last edited by TomCarperNGiles; May 2, 2004 at 08:34 AM. Reason: Redundance
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Check the vacuum line to the fuel modulator valve. My 94 XLT was doing this and I found the line off there. Reconnected it and the knocking dissapeared. Also, if your vacuum lines are oily on the inside and you are loosing transmission fluid without any visable leaks, replace the vacuum modulator on the transmission.
