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Hi guys,My master cylinder was leaking at the booster,on my 79,150.So I bought a new one.put the thing on today and bled all 4 of the breaks.when I went to check the thing out I had no pressure in the peddle now.I did when I was bleeding the brakes but lost it after I started her up.The brakes do grab though but the peddle goes to the floor.All lines seem to be hooked up? Please help this is my first truck and still learning,Thx
Bob what do you mean by higher? I pumped the pedal like 30 times when I found out somthing was not right.The pedal goes to the floor with out any pressure but still grabs when it reaches the floor?
supercab,I thought that whe had?whe bolted it up to the booster,plug her off,filled with fluid then pumped the pedal tell she got hard and no air bubbles?Was this the right way to do this?
When eve I do a master I have theis little hose's that you can buy at a local part's store,and you scew them into the port's for the brake line's,and then 2 rubber hose's hook to them,and they go into the resavor it's self then pump till the air bubble's stop.This get's alll the air out of the M.cylynder then unscrew the hose's,and hook up the steel line's,and good to go.But I also make sure of no leaky wheel cylynder,or looose barke adjustment's.
I had a problem with bench bleeding mine a while back. They gave me these cheapo plastic caps to bleed it with and they sucked basically. I got all sorts of fluid leaking out the secondary port and nothing from the primary, and frankly my hand was tired of pushing on the piston. So what I did was get a short piece of brake line with a fitting and connect it to the primary and hook the other end to a hand vacuum pump, and after awhile fluid started to come out. i put the caps back on gave it few pumps and connected it, bled the brakes and it worked just fine, I think you still got some air in there. Like supercab said, his way probably works best as you can actually see whats going on, and you dont have to buy a kit just a couple of brake lines and 2 hose will do the trick. One more thing check your calipers and wheel cylinders for leaks, pull the dust boot off the wheel cyls and be sure there isn't any fluid in there, if so it's junk replace it.
If you still have A problem after bleeding the master cyl. Get A vacuum brake bleeder. Start with the brakes farthest away from the master ( PS rear ) and bleed the brakes, working your way to the closest brakes. Also cleck the proportioning valve for bleeders.
Vacuum bleeders work great and you can do it yourself. Just remember to keep the master full
Steve
Thx,everyone I'll bleed the whole thing again.What is the right way to bleed The cylider? The book says to push in the piston.........I did not know what this ment so I used the plugs that came with and pumped the brake pedal.Is this the right way?
if your MC didn't come with the little plastic lines to bleed it, then pick some up at any of your local parts stores. They screw into the MC ports like a normal brake line.
1.Screw the lines in and loop them over so they dump into the reservoir on the MC (ie...make it one self-enclosed circuit)
2.Pump the brakes until all the air is out of the MC (be sure the hose ends are under the fluid level in the reservoir, or you will suck air back in through the lines)
3.Hook up your brake lines and proceed to bleed them normally.
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