i got a pyrometer. first i put it in the wrong place. i put it in the intercooler pipe. that was my fault. then i was gonna put it in the up pipe. so i decided to take off my put pipe cause i dident like the idea of drilling in to the up pipe and leting the metal shaving fall in there and then have to go threw the turbo. so i got 3 out of the 4 bolts off. my last bold was on the top. i used a 10mm socket on all the other bolts but this on felt loose. so i use a 3/8 socket and it fit perfrect. i started turning and i was fine.then i got tuff turning it and felt like the bolt was gonna break off. i kept turning and sure enough the boldt broke off. i was pissed why does ford have to put so cheap of bolts in. and this is not the first bolt that has broke off on a ford ive owned. so i just hooked it all back togeather and im luck to say i have no exhaust leak. im gonna wait about a month when i put on my suspension lift and pull off my exhaust manifold and put the probe in that. but all this has been alot of crap.

1999 F-250 4x4 Lariat S/C Diablo Delta Chip
1999 Mustang Cobra 4.56 gears,short shifter,timing adjuster,power pullies,flowmaster exhaust no cat's

 

Not just ford! I was taking my front bumper off of my eclipse and not 1 but 2 of 5 bolts broke in half. My plan is to epoxy the top back on and act like it never happened. Anyways does the pyrometer have to be in the pipe? I plan on doing this same mod when I eventually get my truck.

 

Sorry to say, but your luck probably wont be much better removing the exhaust manafold. I though of doing that too when I installed mine till I realized how much of a PITA it would be.

When drilling the hole, go slow and dob the drill bits in some wheel bearing grease or something like that. The grease will catch almost all of the shavings. When you get the hole drilled out stick one of them telescoping magnets in there and fiddle around trying to pick up every little metalic piece in there. When I did mine there was verry little inside. Then I'd start it up with the hole still open and just let it idle. IF there's still anything in the pipe it will be very very small and the turbo will be spining relitivly slow, so what ever little ity-bity pieces might be left would blow right by. Do the same when you cut the threads in the manafold (grease, magnet, idle).

That's the way I was told to do it. I was still leary when I did it but I pushed on. After I drove it for a couple days I was still scared that I bombed the turbo somehow so I removed the down pipe and EBPV houseing to check and make sure the turbo fins were still in tact (I had just replaced the turbo the month before due to a faulty stock intake box. That's when I swaped to the TYMAR) and it all looked good.

 

I took it to the shop to have it done, saved me that pain in the azz. They also went post turbo so it was easier than going pre - of course there are a number of threads around that topic.

Hey Bryan,
How you liking your Tymar? Mine should be arriving in a few days :-X12
Brian

 

yea its hard to get on. im just gonna take off my exhaust manifold when i lift my truck cause ill already have it in my garge for a few days and with stuff like the tire and leaf springs out of the way it should be easier to get to. i just still think thats crap that they can put better bolts in there though i put headders on my old 93 ranger and when i took off the bolts off the manifold they never ever felt like they were gonna break and were good quality bolts. i think ford should start putting pyrometers on the super dutys or have it as an option to save us all the trouble and hell we have to go threw to get these things in.

 

Your right. I think all diesels should have a pyro and a boost (or at least a pyro) gauge from the factory.

Brian, man soon as you put that thing on you'll wish you'd done it sooner! You'll tell right away that it's breathing easier. You'll probably even see a little drop in your EGT's and boy oh boy will that turbo sing to ya!

 

 

Heres an idea that may help the shaving problem.

While you drill place a good size magnet on the outside of the pipe. This will attact all of the shaving right near the hole you drill. When finished drilling, pull the magnet up toward the new hole most if not all of the scrap will come back out the hole, because of the better attraction to the magnet itself instead of the attration between the pipe.

Hope this helps someone out!

Will- :-X12

 

well theres no need for me to do all of that. i broke off the bolt going in to the y pipe from the up pipe. so now i have an exhaust leak and my truck dosent seem to run properly with the leak. so this comming weekend im gonna have some fun!im gonna pull off the turbo and what ever else to get the y pipe off. then im gonna have to drill the broken bolt out and then tap a new hole. once i have the up pipe off im just gonna drill in it or the manifold. since ill have all this stuff off it will be easy to get the shavings out. but man all this hell ive gone threw just for a gauge???? it dosent seem wortth it but once i get it all done it probblay will be. anyways thanks everybody for your help it came in handy

 

just a note on the magnet. get one from an old speaker, round with a hole in it, drill through the hole. it will catch virtually all the shavings.
scott