I have a 1979 f150 with a 390 and the 1406 beater. The 600 seemed a little small and i wanted it run a little richer for the summer. I called edel tech and they recommendede 1455 rods .73 by.42 vs the stock .75 by .47. I put them in and it seeemed to run alright. the next night i went to town and i noticed it was boggging down on lowend. And there was a point where it would cutout quick and then pick back up. I tryed to lean out the low speed a/f screws but that didn't work. The next day i put my old metering rods back in and it was doing the same thing still. I put in some other plugs that i had and that seemed to work for awhile but that night it was running bad throughout the band. IT was bogging down i guess. I bought new plugs yesterday and that helped but it still is like booged down 0 to 25 mph and generally through the whole rpm band compared to before. Then later on in the my friend came over who was riding with me the night it ran really bad and we check!
ed all compression, the coil, cap, and we went over the a/f screws but changed one only 1/8 of a turn. I run the left 1.75 turns out and the right 1.5 for my motor. We turned the left to 1.625 turns out based off rpm. Then after testing i thought why not through the the new rods back in but it still ran sluggigh. Today i checked the fuel pressure and got mixed results. the last 2 times were at 5 psi and that seems about right but the first time was 8.5 psi that dropped to 7 while idling. THe gauge is new but it might be bad or the fuel pump is unconsistent. I did wot once and it was at 6 psi. And that concludes m,y complaining. I am not sure what to do next but those new holleys look mighty nice. It seems like evrything started after switching the rods but i do not know why. or why it won't go back to old with the stock metering rods.

Is this a bad accelerator pump?

 

It is possible. Have you tried putting the rod into a different hole to change the pump stroke?

 

i am not sure what you mean. But i put the rods ithe holes and the assembly was springy so i assumed it was right. I thought there was one one hole for them to go in.

 

hi there. i have the same carb with a 400cid things should be pretty similar. are u starting with the base calibration? i did the same thing u did and it would run good somwtimes but crappy the next. when i changed the main jets to the 1429(.101) then it really runs good now.with 75-47 rod. i also have the pink springs in but am changing them down till i get stumbles again. do u have the manual that came with the carb?

 

i don't not have the manual but have access to eps manual on the internet. I bought a rebuild kit for $43 and found out there is no accel pump. Thats sold separtely for $12. I have to get that tomorrow. I started tonite and the carb is pretty dang easy to work on. I had some serious debris on the strainer for the secondary needle and seat. The old spring under the pump is a little wornout or compressed compared to the new. I plan on putting the old rodes in for awhile. I am hoping that this will do the trick but if not i bought a new 670 street avanger.

 

I was refering to the actuator rod for the accelerator pump. On the arm that goes to the plunger, there are 3 holes in it. Try the other 2 to see if it helps any.

 

Thats why edelbrock carbs = boat anchore

 

I got the new accel pump and have noticed that my rotor in the dizzy has been slipping and i think that might be the problem. I have tried the street avenger and the edelbrock is a few steps ahead it right now. I plan on testing the old carb out tomorrow.

 

That would make things a bit wacky. A slipping rotor!!