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I have a 500W one. I ran 4-guage cables directly to the battery. The inverter is mounted under the passenger seat. I put a 60A fuse on the + line and mounted the fuse block next to the power distribution box. Works perfectly. I never used a body ground. Just I have to reach under to turn it on/off when I need it.
thats pretty much simular to what I did, althought i mounted mine under the back seat, im wondering if the length is a problem, i used approx 15 feet of cable from the back seat to the battery...
The non-current carrying ground would have no effect on normal operation; it's a safety factor only.
My inverter manufacturer specified a maximum of 5 feet for the power supply leads, but I don't see how that could prevent output completely. I guess I'd try a short cable like jmoschetti suggested.
I am in the process of puting mine where the ash tray is, I dont smoke and dont allow others to smoke either, so, wasted space as far as Im concerned. I just put the wires through the firewall and stripped the wires, and clipped one into the pos wire and one on the neg wire. works fine
I have a 1500w and it also specified both a ground cable to the battery and a smaller wire being attached to a body ground.
Your ground wire going directly to your battery shoud be the same gauge as your positive lead.
The minimum recommended gauge wire for a 800w inverter running a 15 ft length power lead would be 4 gauge.
Your fusing requirements would be 75 amp (66.6 amp draw at 800w) this gives you a slight amount higher for start-up draw of your appliances plugged into your inverter.
On the extension cord set-up... Verify that your inverter has a GFCI as part of the outlet in the inverter unit.Only hook up an extension cord when you use it and then disconnect it. Extension cords are not ever meant to be used for hardwiring. Check for the mfgs. instructions for your inverter on the net under the mfgs website. You might be able to hard wire in additional plugs in other locations if your unit has the GFCI and provisions for the additional plug wiring.
...it didnt come with the traditional cig plug, it has the aligator type clips to go directly to the battery...
Have you verified that you inverter works using the supplied aligator clips? Could be the inverter and nothing to do with the wiring. Also, 8 gauge will work for low wattage items, don't know if you can take it back or not, but I would run 4 gauge for an 800W inverter.
cangim, 8 gauge wire will not carry the amperage needed for a 800w inverter .I know you said yopu would use 4 g but its a bad idea to recommend to anyone to use undersized wiring ie "its ok to use 8 gauge wiring if your only going to use it with low wattage items", its a potential fire waiting to happen. Use the right size wire for the job or dont do it!
Last edited by 94F150-408; May 7, 2005 at 03:02 PM.
Perhaps I worded it wrong, I was not, nor would I recommending running 8 gauge wiring, if all they are doing is running a laptop it would work, but as you stated it is a fire hazard , and the proper size wiring should alway be used, that is why I stated that I would use 4 gauge for an 800W inverter.
Be careful about grounding the inverter to the body.
The ground strap from the engine to the frame is not intended for
that amount of current, and on these newer vehicles the manufacture is skimping on the battery negative cable guage.
P=EI power (in watts) = Volts * Current.
A typical 1000watt inverter would require as a minimum 4AWG wire
directly to the battery posts. The longer the run, the larger the guage.
I Run a 3000watt inverter in my toolbox, with 5 Deep Cycle batteries wired in
parallel, 4AWG wires from each battery directly to the inverter, less than 6' and there is still a noticeable voltage drop.
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