flor board and cab mount replacement
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
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From: Dudley, GA
flor board and cab mount replacement
Anyone have any digital photos documenting the replacement of the front cab mounts and/or floor boards? I'd like to see some pictures of the process before I begin the surgery....
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Sorry no pictures, but here is a quick note on how I did my cab mounts.
I removed the cab from frame and laid it on it's back. I then made a jig to show the exact location of front mount holes and the proper height. I made the jig out of 1x4 and used the mid floor crossmember as the place to set it. Made the jig a box and drilled the hole in the top bar for the mount locations. I used shim to show proper height of mount.
I then cut off old mounts and cleaned up area. The replacement mounts came with lots of extra material to replace floor if needed. Mine did not need that so I cut them to mimic the original mounts only. I then mocked it up using my hole jig to get them in the proper location. I them mounted them permanently and painted everything.
I was able to put the cab back on and it sat at the same exact height and the mounts lined up perfectly. Of course this only works if you have enough of the original metal left to match to. If too much is gone, then the jig will be hard to make.
I suppose you could leave the cab on the frame and then level it up so that it sits straight and then install mounts so that it lines up. I took the cab off so I could paint the entire underneath.
I removed the cab from frame and laid it on it's back. I then made a jig to show the exact location of front mount holes and the proper height. I made the jig out of 1x4 and used the mid floor crossmember as the place to set it. Made the jig a box and drilled the hole in the top bar for the mount locations. I used shim to show proper height of mount.
I then cut off old mounts and cleaned up area. The replacement mounts came with lots of extra material to replace floor if needed. Mine did not need that so I cut them to mimic the original mounts only. I then mocked it up using my hole jig to get them in the proper location. I them mounted them permanently and painted everything.
I was able to put the cab back on and it sat at the same exact height and the mounts lined up perfectly. Of course this only works if you have enough of the original metal left to match to. If too much is gone, then the jig will be hard to make.
I suppose you could leave the cab on the frame and then level it up so that it sits straight and then install mounts so that it lines up. I took the cab off so I could paint the entire underneath.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
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From: Dudley, GA
Thanks Freightrain, I have to leave the cab on the frame, but as my mechanic friend and myself were looking at things under there we thought it would be easier to remove the fenders, or the whole front clip, so we would have better access. We also were looking at how and where we could support the cab once the mounts were free. I thought a 4x4" set under the inner wheel skirt with a floor jack to hold and adjust the cab would work. I will definitly be taking digital photos and posting them in my gallery so everyone can check out my handiwork. Won't happen for a few weeks, my buddy is expanding his shop...
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 325
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From: WEST TENN.
I did mine on the truck, I cut out the old ones, and used a 4 inch grinder to clean up the area, I then jacked up the cab a little and slid the mounts in, then after starting the bolt that goes thru the frame, I lowered the cab back down onto the mount. Mine sits level and tight. I would suggest floorpan first, then install mounts, with the rear of cab bolted down that will put everything right. The only part I removed was the front wheel for access.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
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From: Dudley, GA
X-1:
Boy you make it sound so easy! I have been told it's not too hard to do. I'm just really **** about getting everything level and straight. What kind of welder did you use? I have a Lincoln MIG (gasless). What about the cutting? I'm looking at borrowing a neumatic cutter from work to chop out the old stuff.
Boy you make it sound so easy! I have been told it's not too hard to do. I'm just really **** about getting everything level and straight. What kind of welder did you use? I have a Lincoln MIG (gasless). What about the cutting? I'm looking at borrowing a neumatic cutter from work to chop out the old stuff.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I could see using a pair of jackstands on the outer rocker panels(if you have them and they are stable). Removing the front fenders is a very good idea. Jack up nose of cab to make room for cutting things out. Then drop it back to level and install mounts.
KS70, the jig will only work is you remove cab. Laying upside down to do it would not be worth it. Doing like mentioned above should get the cab back to level pretty easy. You can always shim it up if it settles in the rubber bushings a bit.
The gassless MIG will work...they are messy though. I don't care for flux wire. I suppose if you work at it a bit it should do the job. I'm just spoiled with my big'r machine. A 4" grinder with a cut off wheel will do a nice job or removing any old metal. A air nibbler would work, but you need a hole to put it in to start. Heck torches would get rid of the old stuff, then just grind around the edges...just don't burn the the truck to the ground doing it...
KS70, the jig will only work is you remove cab. Laying upside down to do it would not be worth it. Doing like mentioned above should get the cab back to level pretty easy. You can always shim it up if it settles in the rubber bushings a bit.
The gassless MIG will work...they are messy though. I don't care for flux wire. I suppose if you work at it a bit it should do the job. I'm just spoiled with my big'r machine. A 4" grinder with a cut off wheel will do a nice job or removing any old metal. A air nibbler would work, but you need a hole to put it in to start. Heck torches would get rid of the old stuff, then just grind around the edges...just don't burn the the truck to the ground doing it...
Last edited by Freightrain; Apr 8, 2004 at 08:03 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 325
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From: WEST TENN.
For me it was the McGyver approach. I was going to use an air cut off tool, but it was a pain, so I ended up using tin snips to cut the main part out, I cut it as close to cab as possible, then used the grinder to clean the welded part off. With the radiator support still mounted and the rear mounted, I jacked it just enough to slid it in, this isn't very high, just about level with body bushing, after starting the big bolt, it all ligned up fine. It is really easy, just time consuming if you want it to look good, I don't have a welder, so self tapping screws are holding mine in till I can get to the welder, I am going to unscrew the screws then weld them at those locations, basically just above original welds. The screws were good for pulling it up tight. Afterwards a can of undercoating and nobody will know the difference. For clean welds, the muffler guy will hit it for a few bucks.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
That may tend to bend up what's left. I know it may take some time, but they make a spot weld drill bit. You could go around and drill the welds and then pull it out. Time consuming, but a neater job. If your not to concerned with it then an air hammer will definitely get it off.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: Dudley, GA
Oh My GOD!! You punk! I was mad we didn't hook up in VA, but I will be there again come June. How's my 68!? I wish I had that 240 six in my pig, gas is killing me here in Spain.
I'll get to you off list, I'll need you phone number again.
P.S. Get some pictures in your gallery!!
I'll get to you off list, I'll need you phone number again.
P.S. Get some pictures in your gallery!!