I Have A 92 Ford Ranger 3.0 Xlt 5 Speed. The Problem Is Rough Idle And Low Power At Lower Rpms Also Has A Small Surges At Higher Rpms..
I Have Changed Plugs, Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor Bug, Air Filter, Fuel Filter. Checked Timing That Was Fast Brought It Back To 10 Degrees. (which Made It Worse) I Also Noticed It Took A While For It To Even Back Out At Higher Ipm. I Have Ran A Can Of Bg Fuel Injector Cleaner Through A Full Tank Of Gas.....
Any Ideas??????

 

Welcome to FTE, SNIPPEDFORLIFE!
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Get a vacuum tester to help you find the problem. Or a can of WD-40 and spray it on the lines where you think it might leak. If the idle chanes in any way, it means the WD-40 entered the system and got burnt through the cyclinder. Replace the line(s) and you should be set.

 

Clean or replace the IAC for your idle problem. Pull the codes too just to make sure nothing is there and they are good to check for your power problem. Foe lack of power check fuel pressure and when you set the timing did you pull the spout out.

 

No Vaccum Leaks......ok I Must Be Stupid What Is The Spout, I Could Not Find The Line For The Vaccum Advance If That Is What You Are Talking About, Or Is There One???

 

Spout = Spark out. It's an electrical jumper that needs to be pulled.

 

The spout jumper tells the 'brains' that you want to set the 'base' timing, the mechanical position of all the parts. Once you set the base at 10, you put the spout back in, and the ECM takes over and adjusts the timing for all situations.. hot/cold/accel/decel, etc etc. There should be a plug near the dist that has only 2 wires into/out of the connector. It is the spout jumper. Take it out when setting the initial timing, as noted above. Replace when done. I believe that it is a small rectangular jumper on the 3.0, about 1/2" by 3/4", that has a handle shape for the part that you remove.
I'd also check that your EGR was working properly, as they can cause 'trailer hitching' when you are running down the highway. Disconnect and plug the hose with a golf tee for testing purposes. Do not leave it disconnected as you will hate the pinging and poor gas mileage...
Pull the codes, as already suggested. There may be something there that will let you know what's broken or mal-adjusted.
tom

 

Make sure your spark plug wires are of good quality (Motorcraft). Make sure the wires run in parellel when close together (use those clips). Make sure the wires do not lean up against your fuel injection wires. Put your old Motorcraft wires back on if they have less than 200K on them.

 

Ok I Have Done All Of It And Guess What It Still Feels Like Its Holding Back In The Power And Rough Idle