91 f150 5L Automatic 4x4 having sputtering problems when warmed up. I pulled the codes and I got a code 31 for EVP. I swapped out the EGR positioning sensor and now I get a code 32 for EVR or PFE. I replaced the EGR relay per the advice of my Chiltons manual. Still having intermediate code 32 problems and sputtering is getting worse. If I retard the timing, it seems to help the sputtering issue but I want to fix this code 32. Can anyone help me???

Jim

 

EGR relay? You mean EGR regulator? Could be a bad EGR valve.

 

Go to fordfuelinjection.com and look up the EVP under Sensors. There is testing procedures and tables there to give you values for testing the resistance in the EVP. Take the EVP off the EGR valve and check resistance by manually moving the rod. If if is good, put it back in the EGR valve. Get a vacuum pump and apply vacuum to the EGR valve. If you lose vacuum, the EGR valve is bad. You can also again check resistance on the EVP while applying vacuum to the EGR valve. This will let you know if valve is moving through the its full range. Also, if the resistance on the EVP changes while holding vacuum, the EGR valve is leaking, this is a backup test if gauge on the vacuum pump is bad. You may also want to test the vacuum line running from the EVR to the EGR valve. Connect the vacuum line back up the the EGR valve and disconnect it from the EVR, then hook the vacuum pump up to the line at the EVR. If you can't get the pump to hold pressure at this point, you may have a break in the vacuum line. If everything tests fine at the EGR valve and EVP, test the EVR. Again, you can look up testing at fordfuelinjection.com and look up the EVR under Actuators. Your Chilton manual may also describe the tests.

Hope this helps, Good Luck.

 

I'll give that a try this weekend. It makes me mad that all these parts are new and I can't find the problem. I'm getting .26volts at the EVP so I'll try the vaccuum tests.

Jim

 

So I started messing around checking voltage and vacuum lines. The EVP has 5volts on the vref and .29 to .32 volts on evp side. As I rev'd the engine the voltage did not change telling me that the EGR is not moving. I took the green vacuum line off the EGR and rev'd the motor the vac did not change. I checked the EVR and there was vac at the red line but not that much. I checked the voltage and I found 15 volt on both sides???? fordfuelinjection.com says that there should be +12volts on the right side of the EVR. I think the EEC controls the ground side of the EVR which regulates the EGR. Why am I only getting a code 32 and my check engine light is off??? I unpluged the EVR and I get a code 83 and 84... go figure and the check engine light comes on... Now I'm confused, I have a brand new EVR, EGR, and EVP from Ford. Now what????

 

disconnnect your battery for 15 minutes hook it back and then re-check for codes

 

Check the vacuum lines - you should have a solid vacuum at the inlet of the EVR. Check all around the vacuum resevoir on the passenger side for cracked/broken vacuum lines.

 

All the vacuum lines look good and hooked up according to the diagram on the backside of my hood. One thing that I question is the valve at the back of the engine that controls the fresh air to the engine, I think it was called a thermactor? Anyway, It's hard to get to and was wondering if there was an easy way to check it for vac leaks. I left the battery off all night and I'll check for codes at lunch.

 

If you don't have vacuum at the EVR, then you must have a leak or a blockage somewhere. Thermactor valves are for air injection into the exhaust for emissions purposes. It's possible there could be a vacuum leak at one of those valves.

 

Is the Thermator valve suposed to be on the back of the engine or by the air pump. All the other fords I've looked at are by the air pump.

 

There may be two valves. One is a bypass and one is a diverter (hence the TAB and TAD designations). Later models incorporated both into one housing, but I think your truck might still have them separate (although I don't know for sure). If separate, there is one at the back of the engine (diverter) and one at the pump (bypass).

 

I checked out all the vacuum lines and they look good. I did find that I'm missing what is called a canister purge soleniod. Is this an important part??? I've had code 11 without it before. Do I need to go spend the $60. I left the battery cable off again last night and checked the codes this morning and still have a code 32. This is getting crazy. Still have +12volts on both side of the EVR. Is there a website the shows the pin out and voltages for the EEC? Thanks for your guys help so far.

 

You could have a bad EVR. What parts have you replaced? You mentioned replacing parts but all I see listed is an EGR relay...

 

I replaced the EGR, EVP, and EVR. This morning when it was cold and I pulled the codes. Got 11 and a CM of 32. hummmm. So I pushed the excelorator to turn on all the actuators (thanks fordfuelinjection.com) and nothing happened. Turned off the truck and pulled codes got a 32. I then measured the voltage on the EVP and it was less the .21 volts . Took it off the EGR and pushed in the plunger and the voltage went up to around 5 volts. So I put the old one back on for *****s and Grins. Got a code 11 and had .32 volts on the EVP. Did a KOER test and got a code 11. Went for a long drive so the computer could re-learn. The truck hesitated a couple of times but I think that has to do with the 7 & 8 plug wires being close (read that in an other tread). The damn thing actully drove really good. Thanks for all your help guys. Let me know if I can help with anything. Jim

BTW do I still need the canister purge valve?

 

I'd recommend using the canister purge valve. How do you have it set up now? Do you just have that port on the throttle body capped off?