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Which torque wrench?

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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 01:29 AM
  #16  
j wright's Avatar
j wright
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From: Beavercreek oh
Do you guys that use the clicker type of Torque wrench double click? I was told by an old racing mech. that once it clicks it's torqued and if you double click you are actually over torquing the bolt. What do you think? I know the guys on HP tv double click everything but I'm not so sure they know what they are doing....
John
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:36 AM
  #17  
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FrankLee
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I bought two S-K clicker wrenches.
#74026 - 3/8" drive, 25-250 IN. LBS
#74151 - 1/2" drive, 20-150 FT. LBS

I'm happy with them.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 11:33 AM
  #18  
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Momudder720
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From: House Springs, MO
That's 1/2" one wouldn't work for my dad. He went the Snap-On route. He uses it to torque down the bolts that hold the blade on the flywheel of the chipper. 180 lbs. A real armbuster. CLICK, dang you, CLICK!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 02:12 PM
  #19  
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jasond5150
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From: Montana
Is there a way to test if your torque wrench is calibrated correctly? I've got the clicky one.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 10:40 AM
  #20  
78Explorer's Avatar
78Explorer
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From: South...
Originally Posted by j wright
Do you guys that use the clicker type of Torque wrench double click? I was told by an old racing mech. that once it clicks it's torqued and if you double click you are actually over torquing the bolt. What do you think? I know the guys on HP tv double click everything but I'm not so sure they know what they are doing....
John
Having used clicker-type (break-away) torque wrenches on Minuteman ICBMs (intercontinental ballistic missiles) in the Air Force for 9+ years (and continually on my vehicles since then), I'm fairly comfortable with my torque wrench knowledge.

Here's what the Air Force taught us missile maintenance techs about proper torque wrench use:

1. Store torque wrenches in a warm environment (preferably in a container) - cold affects accuracy. This was important especially in Montana winters due to field conditions way below zero ( <-75 w/wind chill at times)

2. Always store them at their lowest torque setting.

3. "Exercise" them at their lowest torque setting before applying necessary torque. If using a "clicker", click it through it's lowest setting at least 4 times before setting at needed torque and applying that torque. If using an "inch-pound" torque wrench, you can usually do this by hand. If using a "foot-pound" wrench, it's easier to install your socket or crows foot and place on the fastener to be torqued at the wrench's lowest setting and click through at least 4 times.

4. The lowest 20% of the torque range is the least accurate. If you need to torque a fastener at 20 ft. lbs, don't use a 20-150 ft. lb torque wrench - instead use one where 20 ft lbs is above the lowest 20% of the torque wrench's range. Rememer that 20 ft lbs is equivalent to 240 inch pounds, so if you have an inch pound torque wrench that goes that high, use it instead.
Not sure if there are inch-pounders that go that high, but this is just an example. Any torque wrench that puts the necessary torque above the lowest 20%, will be the most accurate. I've got a 0-75 ft.lb wrench - it wound be adequate for torquing to 20 ft. lbs.

5. If you drop the torque wrench on a hard surface (like concrete), it is advisable to have it recalibrated. Of course, distance dropped will be a factor - try to never drop your torque wrenches.

6. Avoid using extension bars - this will affect the accuracy of the applied torque.

7. Always apply torque in a smooth, jerk-free manner - this also affects torque accuracy.

I usually "double-click" but not in rapid succession - for instance, if I'm torquing lug-nuts, I'll click once on each, then recheck the torque again after I've torqued the last one - IMO, double-clicking will NOT over-torque, because the torque-wrench is designed to release at a preset torque value - so if it released (clicked) at 45 ft-lbs, the first time, it will immediately release when torquing pressure is applied the second or subsequent times without providing additional torque - UNLESS you do it in a jerking motion, in which case, you may indeed apply torque beyound the click. Once it's clicked and you keep applying pressure, you're basically holding a breaker bar instead of a torque wrench, that's why it's important to apply the torque smoothly and slowly - let the wrench do what it's supposed to do.

I, personally, believe Craftsman torque wrenches are fine and have verified the torque by comparing with another well-known brand (Proto) at the same torque values. We used a lot of Proto torque wrenches in the Air Force. I cannot personally attest to their accuracy or quality...we (in the Air Force) had our torque wrenches calibrated regularly by the PMEL shop (Precision Measurement Equipment Laboratory) to ensure accuracy (important when wrenching on Nuclear weapons)

Hope this helps...

Regards,
Scott
 

Last edited by 78Explorer; Sep 5, 2004 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 11:49 AM
  #21  
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Momudder720
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From: House Springs, MO
Originally Posted by 78Explorer
...important when wrenching on Nuclear weapons...
It says 120 INCH POUNDS?!

KABOOM!!!!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
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Muffinman
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From: Dallas, Texas
Originally Posted by rebocardo
I bought a cheap one for $50 from northerntools.com made by Sunex. My first one was broken by someone that I let borrow it. The second has survived four years so far, I do not let people borrow it. Comes with a plastic case which is a big bonus. Just remember to set it to zero when you are done before putting it away. I use a Craftsman bar type torque wrench for the small stuff and to double check my other wrench sometimes.

For engine work (caps etc.) I might venture to a better wrench, maybe a digital one. Though most older engine guys seem to prefer beam type because you do not have to tighten the bolt again to double check its torque. On a click type, you are actually applying a bit more force and torque to the head of the bolt to get it to click when double checking it, as I understand it.
I still got my old Snap-On I-beam 250 1/2" drive with flex head. That flex head has saved me many a times in tight places. Rated for 40lbs~250lbs

I still like the easy of changing lbs with just a small ****.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 12:57 PM
  #23  
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Rebel Ranger
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Just my 2 cents, I have a Craftsman beam-type 0-150 ftlb torque wrench, built 2 engines with it, haven't had any trouble with it. Best of all, I calibrate it before each use, just pull 125 on the workbench, check the beam, reset (bend) to zero if needed, go at it. Paid $21.39, after taxes. If I have any problems, stop by Sears, get a new one, only lost the 45 min to stop by.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 10:05 PM
  #24  
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hot1958
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From: outsidechicago
i have a craftsman 1/2'' beam,a 1/2'' snap-on clicker,and a matco 3/8'' clicker wrench.have built a lot of both gas and diesel engine's,and had no problem's with any of them.just take care what ever you type you buy,and it will take care of your need's.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 08:06 PM
  #25  
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scottie2hottie
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From: Honkytonkville
Has anyone every heard of "Blackhawk" (I think) brand tools? A local ma&pa hardware store sells them, and I was wondering if they were any good.
Scott
 
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 09:12 PM
  #26  
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hot1958
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From: outsidechicago
yes,black hawk tool's are good.and the have a life time warr.,i think,ask the store owner for sure.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 06:41 PM
  #27  
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scottie2hottie
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From: Honkytonkville
awesome
Thank you!
Scott
 
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 11:47 PM
  #28  
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2003 6.0
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From: Iowa
i have a Matco 1/2" drive clicker. works great
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 02:17 PM
  #29  
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McMurry
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From: El Dorado,Arkansas
How important is it to torque your lug nuts? I have seen some of the guys on TV do this, but I have never seen the guys in a tire shop use a torque wrench, usually just a air wrench. I have never torqued lug nuts when changing a tire and have never had a tire or lug nut come off.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 02:35 PM
  #30  
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plilikoi
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by McMurry
How important is it to torque your lug nuts? I have seen some of the guys on TV do this, but I have never seen the guys in a tire shop use a torque wrench, usually just a air wrench. I have never torqued lug nuts when changing a tire and have never had a tire or lug nut come off.
It's possible to calibrate an air impact wrench, but these guys never do that. All they're interested in is getting your vehicle in and out of their shop as fast as is practical.

If the nuts are too loose they could come off. If they're too tight they could warp the rotors, and/or you might not be able to spin them off when you're in a pinch and have to swap in your spare.

I torque them to spec. in my garage because I've got a torque wrench. In a pinch, say if I get a flat, I just tighten them by guess.
 
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