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Car vs Truck C-6 differences

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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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Car vs Truck C-6 differences

I am considering converting my '66 F-100 352 from a 3 speed to a C-6, using an FE pattern from a '66 Galaxie. I'll have it rebuilt to bring it up to the modern standards for the clutches and fluid, but I am attempting to ID the differences between the C-6 truck tranny (used in the late '60s on) and the car version.
I'm interested in details such as the following:
1. Yoke size and the size of the U-joint in the car and truck yokes, and what years were changes implemented, if any;
2. Gear ratios;
3. Gear hardness, strength, durability (again, car vs truck if any);
4. Tailshaft/tailhousing differences;
And anything else which may impact the conversion.

Currently, I have a 3.25 9" rear, but I'll change it out to a 2.75 when I make the transmission swtch. I'll use the truck for occasional light towing or Home Depot runs, but mostly for freeway driving. Hence the need to learn about gear ratios if possible.
Thanks!
 

Last edited by banjopicker66; Apr 2, 2004 at 02:52 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 09:32 PM
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I think you should just be happy if you can find any FE C6. I don't see a lot of those anymore. I know they are out there, but they become less and less all of the time. Whether a car or truck transmission, if you are having it rebuilt you should have no worries. The C6 can handle a lot of punishment. It may be best to just tell the shop rebuilding the tranmission what is being used for, and they can build it accordingly. You may have to rework the drive shaft a little, and/or change the slipyoke. That is if thats what your truck has.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 09:55 PM
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I would keep the 3.25 gears, I mean it is a truck right?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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I don't believe there are many differences in car and truck C6's. Tailshaft length is the main difference, though there are more differences when you start talking about factory "performance" transmissions, like servo apply levers and different forward drums (3 vs. 5 friction discs).

Yokes may be different, but that shouldn't be a problem, the splines on the output shaft should be the same.

Now, if you are having it rebuilt (either by a shop or yourself), you can use parts from one in the other like the tail housing/output shaft, this way you wouldn't have to modify a driveshaft.

I'd also concider keeping the 3.25 gears, swithcking to 2.75's would really make your truck dog, even with light towing duty. Plus, the money you save on gas during hiway driving would most likely be used when you lug the engine while towing.
 
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