The engine will crank will not start, we have tried to replace the contol module that didn't work. Any suggestions??????

 

1) Post this in the Explorer and/ or 4.0 Forums, that's where you'll get an INTELLIGENT and rapid response.

2) Have you checked the fuel pump re-set switch?

 

I have a '94 that won't start right now because of a fuel overflow problem. If your engine isn't cranking because it's getting too much gas, I've found a good way to get it started. Locate the inertia switch on the passenger-side firewall. Trip the switch to turn off the fuel pump. Start the truck. If it wasn't starting because it was flooded, it should crank within a few seconds. The engine will continue to run long enough for you to reach down and turn the inertia switch back on.

On my truck, this problem degenerated from hard starting to complete failure to start.

 

That is what has happened here, it went from hard starts to one morning not starting at all! Have talked to some ppl who I think know what they are talking about but none of them can get my truck to start. I would like to get it started to spare getting it towed! Meanwhile I'm getting very spoiled driving a borrowed Expedition! LOL I will try your suggestion, and let ya know if it works! thanks

 

I had a similar problem with my 96 Explorer were it went from starting to just cranking and it turned out to be the fuel pump according to the mechanic. If I were you I would be wary of what the shop says unless you absolutely trust them because the fuel pump is the most expensive repair and there are other possibilities besides that. It could be a simple fuel filter or spark plugs or clogged fuel injectors.

 

Where would i find the fuel filter? Keep in mind here i'm a women trying all of these things, hehe. When problem 1st occurred mech. we go to said fuel pump, when i hessitated then he started throwing other things out there, one was this ignition control module, that was a complete bust! Then once that didn't work we moved onto ( think he called it a ECC????) something located inside truck under dash, don't wanna buy this part if it's gonna be another not needed part! Would like to know how u get codes..etc...with out the truck having to be towed to location! Thanks

 

Another added comment here, and coome on guys i need HELP here!!!! It's not getting spark! that is why I was told to replace the control module, or coil not real sure anymore...anyway after replacing that still no spark! Should i replace the spark plugs??

 

Link to DIY EEC-IV self-tests: www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html Only tool required is a paper clip.
If the starter is turning the engine over, there are only a handful of things required for the engine to start.
1) Fuel. Did any of your mechanics check for the correct fuel pressure at the fuel rail? If not, the first thing I might do is get a fuel pressure gauge and see what's there. Do you hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key to on? If you ground the fuel pump test lead in the self-test connector (with the key on), does the fuel pump come on? Using a stethoscope, you should be able to hear the fuel injectors opening and closing.
2) Spark. Have you pulled any spark plugs to verify that they are firing? Timing is preprogrammed into the computer, but if the crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor (if equipped) is not functional then the computer won't know when to fire the spark.
3) Compression. Maybe while you have spark plugs off to check for spark, use a gauge to see if the cylinders have compression.
4) Air. Very unlikely that the air intake is completely blocked off. IAC valve's do get dirty, will it start if you hold the throttle open a little?
At this point, we haven't necessarily identified the bad part, but we should know better where to look.

 

Turn the key to run(don't crank), you should hear the fuel pump kick on for about a second. If you don't, sorry, probably pump, or hopefully no power to pump. If you hear the pump whine, next in line is the filter. On mine ('95) it was located inline on the drivers side inside the frame rail (about even with the drivers door). You'll need to get a tool from an autoparts store to remove the filter(~$5). Check for spark. I always just pulled a plug wire, stuck a screwdriver in the end tried to arc to a ground (be careful doing this )
Changing out a fuel pump isn't too bad. Drain the fuel tank, drop it, and R/R the pump.
Good luck
Mike

Got busy halfway through my post and didn't see the spark part.
Hate doing this at work. Don't they know I am busy!
Paper clip test works pretty well. Found out I had problems I didn't know I had. Just be sure to have paper and pencil ready and watch closely to that CEL.

 

We know that there is no spark, at all, used to hear the fuel pump run before...has been an ongoing problem for awhile now. Was told to by a new fuel pump relay, went to Ford bought one...nothing, then had brother-in-law come and look at it, and he tested to see if there was spark, there wasn't...got the control module, still nothing. But also, NOT hearing fuel pump hissing sound any longer, that used to be our cue that we new it would start! Has not started in 4 days now at all.....thanks for all the help i'm getting here would be lost other wise

 

what's the paper clip test? and how would i perform it?

 

Paper clip is used to retrieve codes from computer. Refer to EEC-IV self-test link above.
No fuel pump and no spark? Used to start when the fuel pump would run? Possibly suspect the EEC relay. EEC relay supplies power to both the fuel pump relay and the EEC computer (aka PCM) which then controls injectors and spark.

 

Sounds like a fuel pump issue to me...

Get under there and beat firmly but not too hard on the tank...like with a plastic mallet..

checking to see if the pump seized up..i

 

Sounds like a fuel pump issue to me...

Get under there and beat firmly but not too hard on the tank...like with a plastic mallet..

checking to see if the pump seized up..

 

Our 92 Ranger (4.0/Auto) was doing the same thing. Somebody suggested changing the fuel pump relay. I did that and the problem stopped for awhile, then started again. Another post said to replace the ECM relay (it is next to the fuel pump relay on our truck). I think that it is fixed. Maybe I was just hitting the ECM relay while replacing the fuel pump relay and knocked it back into temporary repair. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Another thing that was occassionally happened was a mysterious dead battery after parking for a few days. My daughter now says that the truck doesn't do the wierd "double click" when she shuts it off. Maybe that is connected to replacing the ECM relay.

On the 92 Ranger the fuel pump relay was $25 and the ECM relay was $15. It may be worth a try.