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After spending all week ride around feeling all the vibrations of the cab resting on the frame I have decided to tackle the front cab mounts this weekend, right now the body is resting on the frame and you can feel all the vibrations thru the cab at higher speeds. I cut the cab mounts out of a 71, and am going to install them into my truck using rivets since I have no welder. Before I start this anyone have any suggestions or advice for me?
Agreed. Aluminum rivets will fail very quickly. Bolting them in would be better than riveting, but not by much. Installing them the proper way by welding them will ensure you won't be doing this procedure again really soon.
If you just get some grade8 1/4'' bolts with some good size washers spaced about 1''1/2 apart should hold it for along time unless your going to be using it off road. If so then bolt it in place and go around town and see who will weld it the for the less $$... my 2 cent's
orich
Do not use rivets, they are meant for clamping, not shear loads. If you have to, use grade 8 1/4 bolts with lock washers under the bolt head and under the nut. Tighten to 15 foot pounds. The holes should only be big enough to have to thread the bolt through with the threads, once the threads are clear of the metal, tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer.
A muffler shop will be able to weld the lite gage metal with no problem. Even if you bolt it get it welded asap. Cost should not be that high. Be sure and fold the floor covering back when you do this.
After spending all week ride around feeling all the vibrations of the cab resting on the frame I have decided to tackle the front cab mounts this weekend, right now the body is resting on the frame and you can feel all the vibrations thru the cab at higher speeds. I cut the cab mounts out of a 71, and am going to install them into my truck using rivets since I have no welder. Before I start this anyone have any suggestions or advice for me?
Just did mine a couple of weeks ago....If you remove the carpet from the interior and drill out the spot welds (pilot hole first then a 7/16 drill bit) holding the mounts in place, then it wouldnt cost you that much to get them welded back in the same way using the same drilled out holes....its is fairly painless doing it this way and they are back in the way they should be.
Thanks for the responses, for now I will do them using bolts, this is a street truck, and the vibrations killing me, latter I can get them welded up. Thanks for talking me out of the rivets.
Make sure the rubber bushings between the cab mounts and the frame are still in good shape. If there not, you can either order a complete set for about $50 which includes all the hardware to bolt the cab back on, or you can make your own. This will help to reduce the vibration.
Thanks,
I got one in, it was a pain, the cutter I had wouldn't cut it, so I had to use hand shears, and a grinder to make it flush, ending up using self tapping screws till I can get to the welder. The screws pulled it up nice and tight. I would have drilled, but my floor is thin in spots, and I didn't want to weaken it anymore than needed, but even with just one repaired what a difference, truck just feels better, if my used mounts don't hold up, then I can unscrew them and buy new repacements. Next is the driverside which also needs the e-brake cable replaced, the cable housing is kinda frayed, so I got another cable to install, so that goes in this weekend, this truck is almost brand new again!!
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