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When I start my truck somtimes it seems to lurch ahead slighty, but doesn't actually slip out of park. And the park pin seems to hold fine when the truck is not running or just parked and idiling. Any ideas on this?
Try this, make sure you are in a clear area, nothing to hit with vehicle. Put it in neutral and try starting, see if symptoms are the same. Be ready on the brake if it lurches. Could be linkage. Do you consistently park on an incline and use the ebrake?
Try this, make sure you are in a clear area, nothing to hit with vehicle. Put it in neutral and try starting, see if symptoms are the same. Be ready on the brake if it lurches. Could be linkage. Do you consistently park on an incline and use the ebrake?
I don't consistently park on inclines. But I do use the ebrake quite often.I'm new to Fords but I noticed that they sure have a sloppy park pin , when you shut it off it rolls alot before catching. I've confirmed with an inlaw that this is a Ford thing even his new Exploder does this. But I'm still confused about the lurching prob I have. How can I tighten up the linkage on the C6 tranny? Is the procedure similar to say a Chevy T-350? Also if the symptoms are the same when I try a start in Nuetral then what?
I don't think there is any adjustment relative to the linkage. Does the lurch happen during cranking or just as the engine starts? The slop could be coming from a worn roller or what I call the rooster comb.
Some call it a pawl. In the valve body, the shaft has tab on it that looks like a rooster's comb, 5-6 indents with points on top that the detent roller rides on. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automa...nsmission5.htm. The 3rd picture, bottom right you'll see the part.
I wouldn't pull the tranny yet. Drop the pan and drain the oil. You can see this part with the pan off. The detents should be uniform to each other. If 1 looks different or excessively large gapped or the point worn off, that would cause the slop in the park. Possibly in the valve body also due to the travel of the rod not in it's proper position causing a sort of bypass when you start allowing pressure to flow causing the lurch. You shouldn't have to pull the tranny to change this part.
20 thousand miles on a new longblock. The tranny could be original but I beleive the guy I bought the truck from put a shift kit in the tranny and flushed it with new juice. Guess he should have checked the pawl too, but then again its something I would have overlooked my self. SO if the detents or the pawl itself are worn down then the whole unit gets replaced? Do i need any specialized tools to do this?
my 85 tempo did this.
Just a problem in the torque converter i'm guessing, little bit of friction in the transmission causeing it to move foward cause its not truely in neutral cause of the friction.
OK, coplin, new scenario. Shift kit installed. Has the lurch just started or has been there since you owned the truck. The kit changes the timing of the shift and how hard it goes in. This could be part of you problem. To eliminate some possible problems, lets try this if you want to spend the money. Down here in La, some of the quick lube shops offer tranny flushes. This would clean out any sludge build up. While they're in there, see if they'll let you in the area and look at the pawl. During the flush, the converter gets cleaned also as Tayln mention. That would be the cheapest and easiest thing to do.
My 89 460 e4od does this on occasion. If it is the same thing mine does it is in the torqe converter. Mine only does it when the fluid is very cold. It doesnt hurt any thing with mine.