beginer, changing front brake pads
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
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beginer, changing front brake pads
what's involved with changing the front brake pads on my 1996 mazda b3000?
what is the proper procedure? (the more detail the better)
is this a good project for someone who has not worked on cars/small trucks previously?
do i need to bleed the brakes? (they were just bleed less than a month when i had my two rear lines replaced) if so, what is the best produre for doing this?
thank you in advance for the help.
what is the proper procedure? (the more detail the better)
is this a good project for someone who has not worked on cars/small trucks previously?
do i need to bleed the brakes? (they were just bleed less than a month when i had my two rear lines replaced) if so, what is the best produre for doing this?
thank you in advance for the help.
Last edited by patrickgw; Mar 30, 2004 at 07:31 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 3
From: Belleville, Ontario
This is the page that is in the "Technical Information" sticky at the top of this board:
Changeing Front Brake Pads
Changeing Front Brake Pads
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 694
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From: formerly Brooklyn NY now
go to sears or a good hardware atore and get a big C clamp its a clamp that is shaped like a "C" you unscrew the handle of the clamp til you can get it over the caliper and then screw it back in to compress the caliper. You need a good eight inch clamp to do this . You can also use a screwdriver a real large flathead to pry back on thecaliper to compress it its kinda hard to explain in print but you should be able to figure it out once ya start the job feel free to ask any more questions and ill try to answer em as best i can
ya know the haynes manual and all have detailed instructions and pictures for these kind of jobs they help out if ya have a basic idea about how to do the job
ya know the haynes manual and all have detailed instructions and pictures for these kind of jobs they help out if ya have a basic idea about how to do the job
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 140
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From: Sunriver, Or
i bought a tool to do this at the auto supply store for under $8 - money well spent and you don't need to worry about damaging the piston.
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Freshman User
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It helps to use a piece flat of wood (about 3/4" thick and long enough to cover both pistons). Put the piece of wood over both of the pistons, then put the C clamp on. This will keep the pistons square in the cylinders when you compress them. Or like Ken said, use the brake pad. Either way is fine. I cannot stress this enough...take one side apart at a time. That way, you have the other side to use as a reference to where everything goes. If the bolts that hold the brake pad/piston housing are rusted and don't want to come loose, don't force them. Get some good penetrating oil, spary them, and let it sit for a few minutes. It is also a good idea to use some brake lube (eg. SlideGlide) and apply it to the area where the calipers slide back and forth. If you don't want to get your hands completely soiled, get a pair of tight fitting gloves. You should be all set. If you have any more questions, you know where to ask them!
I almost forgot this. Your new brake pads (as well as your old ones) should have a wear bar (a little metal tab that sticks out). If I'm not mistaken, there is a right and a left side. Make sure you install them with the wear bar on the leading edge of the inside pad. So the pad on the inside should have the wear bar on the lower side of the rotor. This is where it is handy to have the other side as reference.
I almost forgot this. Your new brake pads (as well as your old ones) should have a wear bar (a little metal tab that sticks out). If I'm not mistaken, there is a right and a left side. Make sure you install them with the wear bar on the leading edge of the inside pad. So the pad on the inside should have the wear bar on the lower side of the rotor. This is where it is handy to have the other side as reference.
Last edited by rangerdriverforlife; Mar 31, 2004 at 06:47 PM.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 5
From: Jefferson, Iowa
If your rotor has groves in it, take it to a machine shop and see if they can get machined, if you just put new pads on old rotors its a waste of money and time. Check the rubber brake lines for cracks carefully. Do not disconnect the front brake lines, that way you will NOT have to bleed the front brakes because air never got in there.