Brake Job
4x4 front brakes
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Covington usa
4x4 front brakes
Just a quick note to ask how different a 4x4 ABS front pad replacement is. I've never done those before and when we pulled off the front tire I saw two large bolts (with what appeared to be a spring) running from the inside to the outside holding on the calipers...it is prtetty much straight forward like a non-4x4? Any help would be nice thanks
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 859
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From: philly pa
the best thing you can do is get a haynes manual. i did the brakes on 3 vehicles so far w/little experience (i've only been driving for a few years). the haynes manual will show you every step and also tell you what parts to lubricate. the amount of money you save doing it yourself will more than pay for the manual and any tools needed to do the job. front brakes are really easy so you should be fine.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 45
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From: Kentucky
If you don't pull the whole caliper, then how do you get the cylinders to slide back and accept the thicker, new pads? I always end up disconnecting everything to get the fluid out of the caliper to let the cylinders slide back.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
You undo the bleeder screw and get a c-clamp and tighten it on the piston then the fluid comes out. Then you tighten the bleeder screw back up. Don't disconnect the caliper from the flex hose because then you for sure have to bleed the air out of the system. Good luck!
-Matt
-Matt
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
On every brake job I have done in the past six years, all I do is remove the mstr cyl cover then compress the brake piston. On everything from a 73 Chevy or 87 Toyota to my Aerostar. I do not see why a front ABS system would be different. Then again I have not done a Ford truck beyond 2000.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 767
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From: Franklin, GA
Don't take the large (18mm hex) bolts out. The smaller ones with the rubber compression boots on them are the ones you want to remove. Use a large flat blade screw driver to apply some pressure between the pad and the rotor to push the piston back in the caliper some. This will provide you enough slack to get the caliper off the rotor and out of the rotor's mounting bracket. Use a vise grip type c-clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper when the pads are removed. Place a rag over the master cylinder when you compress the piston to prevent the brake fluid from shooting up to the underhood paint.
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Jun 28, 2010 05:06 PM