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im now on my second day of fighting this quick coupler! My new clutch will be here in a week, so I have plenty of time, just running out of patience!Why do we always run into these little problems? I wouldnt have to disconnect this line if it werent for the fact that one bolt siezed and rounded off on the E.Manifold. should I go ahead and cut the stud thats siezed? this means I have to remove the exaust manifold because the studs look like they are threaded into the manifold(i take it this will have to be machined, and new stud installed) I have the fenderwells out, so it wont be very hard!!!
Not sure if Im asking for advice, or just venting.
If i disconnect the quick coupler, will juice come gushing out of the line I just disconnect? Will I then be learning how to bleed a Hyd.Clutch? Amazing how one little thing can put a kink in someones slinky.
Last edited by gangrene; Mar 30, 2004 at 06:30 AM.
Can you move the tranmission far enough to work inside the bellhousing?
If so, you should see a roll pin in the slave cylinder that holds the quick coupler to the slave cylinder, drive it out, and you're good to go.
Your other option would be to unbolt the master cylinder and all the supports along the line, and remove it with the transmission.
I have the transmission out and my new clutch got here yeaterday.Of course my throwout bearing is damaged and I have to go and get a new one. I am going to try and put it all back together without disconnecting the quick coupler. I am not going to fight the coupler. I have enough room , I think, to be able to install the clutch, and make sure its all lined up. I never looked for a roll pin. I appreciate all the help!!!!!
I noticed, also that my new clutch driven disc looks no different than my old one, but my flywheel, and pressure plate has ridges....so I am wondering since my old T.O.bearing is bad, and the pressure plate self adjustment is all the way adjusted, if someone didnt just throw in a new driven disc before the dealership sold me the truck.