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I was reading years back about sandblasting with baking soda. The article was talking about a company in LA I think. The reason for using baking soda is because of the size it gets into all the pits that regular media can't. It cuts rust just as good.
I was talking to one of the commercial sandblast guys we use a while back. He said he likes to use soda on vehicles. He can get right up next to the glass without damaging it and the clean up is easier, but it costs more. I didn't ask if it was plain old baking soda that he used.
I have never used baking soda myself, but have read on other sites, that it is a pain to clean up and prep for painting. Go to http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index and do a search. Several people have commented on it at different occasions.
I was employed at keystone stripping for a few years, and for paint removal we used plastic media, and for rust removal we used glass bead, we did cars for reggie jackson and also all kinds of other stuff, plastic worked great on cars with no damage.
All,
I am a shadetree auto restorer. I have a pressure blaster and shoot silicate. I have been told that warpage occurs during sandblasting. I have never seen it. What is warpage? Is it the texture of the surface that I've heard mentioned? I run my blaster at 120 psi and can go through 75 lbs. in about 7 minutes. Am I just using a tiny blaster that doesn't have the power to warp a body panel?
Curious,
KingFisher
I just blast with play sand. Its under $2.50 for a 50# Bag and doesnt tear up stuff but does a good job of removing rust and washes out thin stuff so you dont get any surprizes down the road and leaves the metal smooth and unwarped. I sandblasted my entire 78 F150 body (disambeled completly with ALL glass removed) with play sand. I used about 500 LBS on the cab, doors, hood etc and estimate about another 200 to 300 lbs for the bed
I just blast with play sand. Its under $2.50 for a 50# Bag and doesnt tear up stuff but does a good job of removing rust and washes out thin stuff so you dont get any surprizes down the road and leaves the metal smooth and unwarped. I sandblasted my entire 78 F150 body (disambeled completly with ALL glass removed) with play sand. I used about 500 LBS on the cab, doors, hood etc and estimate about another 200 to 300 lbs for the bed
Why in the world did you go to that much trouble?...I can't imagine wasting all that good sand...why did'nt you shovel it up and srain it thru screenwire into a container and reuse it? I have sand that has been blasted on dozens of jobs and awaits resurrection...I waste nothing...more profit
Warpage occurs when the metal you are blasting overheats and changes shape. Sand is not recommended for items such as sheetmetal. But, rather for items such as frames . Different types of metals require different types of media from walnut shells to glass beads. All types of media leave a different surface finish as well on the item that you are blasting or cutting. check out tip tools or eastwood for further information. I believe there is also a national media website for blasters. What ever you do always wear some sort of respirator- the best you can afford lungs are easily damged by any mfine particles of media- lungs are rarely replaceable.
Why in the world did you go to that much trouble?...I can't imagine wasting all that good sand...why did'nt you shovel it up and srain it thru screenwire into a container and reuse it? I have sand that has been blasted on dozens of jobs and awaits resurrection...I waste nothing...more profit
The reason I dont resuse the sand is that it all lands in a wet gravel/mud driveway and my blaster easily clogs up and alot of it is blown away in the wind also. If I was blasting inside on a concrete floor I would definitly reuse the sand.
Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be dipping the body and sandblasting the frame. I want to make sure I get all the rust out of the body and dipping seems to be the only way to assure that.