When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Maybe swapped in? Enuf of that gets done around here
But just in case:
Engine Identification:
351C/M/400 335 series: 8 bolts in rectangular valve covers. Timing chain housing is part of block. Thermostat housing on block. Exhaust bolt holes diagonal.
351M/400 335 series: intake is 10.7" wide the 351C is narrow.
351W/302/5.0L 6 bolts on trapezoidal valve covers. Thermostat housing on intake. Exhaust bolt holes horizontal.
429/460 385 series: 7 bolts in rectangular valve cover
352/360/390/427/428 FE series: Intake goes under valve covers.
There are other indicators but these may help.
My 77 F-100 has a 351W also, plus a fan clutch and a big radiator, no shroud, and even in 90+ heat I never saw it go beyond 205. My engine is from a 69 Ford LTD.
Last edited by Phinxter; Mar 28, 2004 at 11:26 PM.
My 77 had a 79 car 351W in it when I bought it. It had a 351M according to the Vin.
But all is well because it now has a 77 MarkV 460/C6 between the fenders!!!! It still has the 3 row 351 radiator with a shroud and clutch fan. Never gets over 210.
Whats the lowest recommended temp. I finally installed my temp gauge into the top of my intake manifold (it's a 302) and there was coolant in the port I used but my guage is barley pushing 160. Could it be my thermostat? I put the thermo in last summer, I think the guy said it was a "fail safe" should I change it out and put a different one in?
thanks
Jeff
Sorry for high jacking thread.
Last edited by CodaSmog; Mar 29, 2004 at 10:44 AM.
Thanks very much everyone. I was afraid it was running too hot. The guy I bought the truck from says he put the 351w in it from a 80's something Crown Vic. He said it was a sherrifs patrol car and that it was a interceptor? I dunno but it sure runs good and uses not a drop of oil.
If the gauge is accurate then sounds like the thermostat is stuck open, at least slightly, is broken, or it is rated for 160 F. One thing I always do when I buy a new thermostat is fill a pot with water, put the thermostat in it, heat it up on the stove,and use a candy thermometer or something that will read well above 200 F, check the operation of the thermostat before I put it in the engine. I haven't found a new one that was bad yet but I have known of others that have put a new one in and it was bloody rubbish!!! The same test can be done with your gauge if it's accuracy is in question. Personally I wouldn't want the engine to run that cool, I prefer it to be around 195-210, the engine is more effiecent at that temp, and should get better fuel economy. What is the temp rating on the one you have? What ever it's rated at 180, 195, etc this is when it is suppose to begin to open and isn't fully open until the coolant is 5-10 hotter. I would stick with a 195 unless you carry/haul heavy loads and have a problem overheating, in which case I would go cooler until I was able to maintain a comfortable temp.
Get rid of that Thermostat and put the correct one in.
195*F in the winter & Not less than 180*F in the summer.
Those numbers are for Thermostat Opening not operating temp.
The engine was designed to run with a 195* .
Too cold with cause the engine to wear faster & cause poor fuel economy.