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I have searched for more than an hour or more here on the forum and the net and I can not find anything on converting a 10.25 to 5 lug. I know I have seen some posts here on the subject but I never thought I would find one for a good price so I didn't pay much attention to the posts.
I don't see a problem in having the axles and drums redrilled for 5 lug. Does anyone else see a problem? I don't have the axle here yet and I won't get it until next Saturday if I have time.
I'm assuming you're wanting to use 5-lug 1/2 ton wheels on your 3/4 ton rearend... Have you measured the center hole of the wheels to see if they will fit over the drive hub on the 3/4 ton axle? The 3/4 ton bolt circle is 8x6.5" (if using an axle from a pre-superduty truck), the the 1/2 ton bolt circle is 5x5.5", if I remember correctly. Other than that, I don't see a problem with re-drilling them for 5 lugs...
I haven't measured anything yet. The axle is still at the yard and I will be out of town all week and then this weekend is the ford swap meet so I hope to pick it up this weekend but I may not.
Maybe I could turn down the end of the axle and leave just enough for the drum to fit on?
what kinda of adaptors are you speaking of, i am very very interested in doing this swap also in a bronco, but need to use my wheels. please, its eaither use the 10.25 or sell it
yes it probably would, but if you redreiiled the axle and drum, ther would be 13 holes in it. loosing much strength and it might not even to be able to be drilled right because of the exisiting holes.
I don't think you'd lose that much strength compared to what you would lose by going to 5 lugs. Since the bolt pattern for the 5 lug is smaller, then the axles will be as strong as 5 lugs can be. The brake drum might lose a little strength, but I think it would be negligible. I think the ultimate limiting factor on strength would be the wheel studs themselves, but it should be no worse than what came in the truck stock.
My plan is to leave in the old 8 lug studs a cut them down so they are just below the surface of the drum. There is no real need to take them out and the holes will stay sealed keeping water and dirt out.
As for the rim ID I will not get to check that for a couple of weeks now. So when I go back to pick up the axle I will address that if need be. I will still have to order a new backing plate for one side since it's all bent up.
I agree with the strength of the studs being weakest link. I am sure the axle flange will be more than strong enough as long as the holes aren't over laping one another. I feel the biggest gain is in the gears. Where does an 8.8 always fail? The gears fail before the axles do and since I can get this thing cheap and it has the correct gearing plus a trac loc and I can't pass it up.
i will not install the axle until I do the ZF swap. This way I only have to rework the rear driveshaft once.
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