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You don't want to hook a pump to it, but you could use a tire gauge (or something similar) to measure the pressure in the system. To bleed the air out you just push the valve in and let the air out. (just like letting air out of your friends tires)
The last thing you would want to do is pump air into the system.
The wire is a fuel line heater.
You should never have to bleed air out of that valve unless you run out of fuel.
Running out of fuel is not a good thing, it may cost you a new starter.
grt250 sure am glad I am not your friend......LMAO
Dave, I count everyone on this site as a friend. obviousally i was kidding about the tire thing.
Although I did have a friend leave 4 valve stems on my dash once. Knowing that guy might actually do it, it was a good made you look joke.
grf i got it, and thought it was funny
my truck has been a constsnt "learning oppertunity" but yea that wire is cut and i was wondering where to connect it to.. i cant find any other 83 diesels arround here to look at...
I don't know where the heater wire plugs in off hand but I'll look tomorrow and let you know what it does on my 91 It may be diffrent on your 83 but I'm sure someone else will chime in and help out
hey thanks man any help is good IMHO im wondering if maby i should splice it to a constant power when the ignition is "ON" or if its just a momentary heat like the glows.
That wire comes out of the wiring loom for the alternator. It should be controlled by the same sensor that controls the fast idle if I remember right. Loaned my book to someone else with problems.
Mine has been disconnected for years.
grt250 guess I got you with my joke as well. I was Laughing My A88 Off, LMAO about your comment about the tires.
For what it worth I did look at my truck this morning like I said I would. And although my system is a little diffrent I was gonna say what dave already said.
Dave, I got it I was just a little slow last night programming all day will do that. Thanks for clarifying "LMAO"
Actually, you would use the schrader valve to bleed air while the engine is running. If you run out of fuel, you will have to loosen a couple fuel lines at the injectors and bleed air there. Keep the cap on teh schrader to prevent dirt from entering, and potential leaks at bay. Also, if you start going thru glow plugs on a 1983, you may actually have an alternator going bed. That year the alt was used to tell the glow plug controller to stop operating, but in 1984 it was changed. Ck the voltage t the back of the alt, if low then it is the glow plug culprit. Also, if you get a no start or quits running after start-up wnd it is not a fuel pump issue, run the return line into a bucket at the rear of the engine, by-passing the fuel return to the tank. If it then runs, replace the fuel tank switching valve, it is sticking on the return side and not switching to the second fuel tank. Blue smoke is burning oil, black smoke is too much fuel, and white smoke is low compression. If white smoke, check for blown head gasket, usually indicated by antifreeze leak under exhause manifold but maybe slow, not rapid leak. If black, check injectors spray patterns, plugged airt filter or fuel pump over fueling. If blue smoke, likely a rebuild is in order. The last one I built went 415,000 miles and lost the cam gear nut or it would have been still on the job. The rockers were another weak point in the early engines. You may buy glow plugs at an International dealer cheaper than a Ford dealer, especially a primarily Ford car dealer. Good luck with your diesel. It has been a while but I have built several in years past. I like the engine. It is one of the more successful diesel stories in the marketplace, with Ford having over 50% of the diesel pick-up market. Oh, also it is best to change the oil every 250 gallons of fuel burned rather than per xxx number of miles. That accounts for idling time that mileage fails to consider. And ck the oil 10 minutes after shutdown as oil expands and if cked cold may cause over filling the crankcase. David
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