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My 90' update...! cold start

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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 08:59 AM
  #1  
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bigsquirt
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From: The Gorge, Oregon
My 90' update...! cold start

OK,
It doesn't want to start in the morning, unless i plug in the block.
The glow plugs are good so i want to test the controller, right.?
The directions are just checking voltage to the glow plug connectors i presume..
Also my cold start for fuel and the idle solenoid are getting 12 volts and it is white smoke when trying to start as well.
Might take it to the international dealer for a "tune up" if i can't solve but with you guys helping me i have confidence and a strong will too..:-)

Thanks again.

1990 F250 XLT Lariat S/C 4WD, 7.3 E4OD 4.10's
 
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #2  
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quickest

quickest way to get to the point if the glowplugs work do a compression test if that is bad your wasting your time fork over 5,000 dollars
 
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 10:33 PM
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Dave Sponaugle
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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When you turn the key to on do you hear the glow plug solenoid click?
Does the wait to start light come on?
Does the amp guage drop down a bit when you turn the key to on?
Does it start easy when you plug the block heater in?
How many miles on truck?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 01:57 AM
  #4  
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bigsquirt
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From: The Gorge, Oregon
Warmer weather..but today something happened.

"When you turn the key to on do you hear the glow plug solenoid click?
Does the wait to start light come on?
Does the amp guage drop down a bit when you turn the key to on?"

After 7-10 seconds the Wait light turns off. Then.. the volt meter then drops intermittently to a load situation while clicking 4-6 times.

"Does it start easy when you plug the block heater in?"

Right away, after only 20 minutes even. 41-45 degrees OSA.

"How many miles on truck?"

165,000 mi. After the intial startup this baby runs great since iv'e had it.
However, lately outside temps have climbed into the 48 above range and it now starts cold in the morning after about a seven second crank on the starter. Afterwards it starts right up when warm.

Now Dave, bear with me. Today for the FIRST time after driving in town about five miles. I was coming to a stop and it decides to start jumping to 1200rpm stumbling (E4OD) as if it's running out of fuel. I pulled it right off the road and it died.

I then got it restarted with my foot into the throttle slightly. It seemed to clear up so i continued on. I noticed it did this about four more times on the way home while only doing this when i'm off the throttle at idle for a bit of time.

Now I add this last info since i'm the "new" owner here and i think water could be a factor as I was on my front tank only 1/4 full, after my second fill up. Also I noticed if i kept my foot on the throttle to about 700 rpms the problem did not re-create itself.

It normally idles in drive about 550 rpm's... would 700 be to high..?
And does this tell me maybe a fuel pump problem or air leak is happening..?

thanks again for the help, and more info...
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 07:00 AM
  #5  
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From: Duluth, Mn.
Originally Posted by bigsquirt
"When you turn the key to on do you hear the glow plug solenoid click?
Does the wait to start light come on?
Does the amp guage drop down a bit when you turn the key to on?"

After 7-10 seconds the Wait light turns off. Then.. the volt meter then drops intermittently to a load situation while clicking 4-6 times.

"Does it start easy when you plug the block heater in?"

Right away, after only 20 minutes even. 41-45 degrees OSA.

"How many miles on truck?"

165,000 mi. After the intial startup this baby runs great since iv'e had it.
However, lately outside temps have climbed into the 48 above range and it now starts cold in the morning after about a seven second crank on the starter. Afterwards it starts right up when warm.

This would indicate,to me, that your getting air in the fuel lines. I'd R&R the return lines. It's cheap and usually clears up a lot of problems. Also, this is a good time to have those injectors tested

Now Dave, bear with me. Today for the FIRST time after driving in town about five miles. I was coming to a stop and it decides to start jumping to 1200rpm stumbling (E4OD) as if it's running out of fuel. I pulled it right off the road and it died.

I then got it restarted with my foot into the throttle slightly. It seemed to clear up so i continued on. I noticed it did this about four more times on the way home while only doing this when i'm off the throttle at idle for a bit of time.

Now I add this last info since i'm the "new" owner here and i think water could be a factor as I was on my front tank only 1/4 full, after my second fill up. Also I noticed if i kept my foot on the throttle to about 700 rpms the problem did not re-create itself.

You might have a fuel tank pickup problem. You'll have to try some "trial and error" here. Keep one tank full and then run the other one down to 1/4 or lower. If the problem occurs, try switching the tanks to the full one. If the problem quits. I'd suspect a broken off fuel pickup, in the suspect tank.

It normally idles in drive about 550 rpm's... would 700 be to high..?
And does this tell me maybe a fuel pump problem or air leak is happening..?

thanks again for the help, and more info...
Good luck with her!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 10:13 AM
  #6  
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bigsquirt
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From: The Gorge, Oregon
Thumbs up Update re: stumble

After switching to the rear tank (Full), and raising the idle to 700rpms.
The truck ran all day no more stumbling. I think bringing the idle down to 650-600rpm would be my next chore, to verify the idle change had nothing to do with the fix. I think the fuel pick up makes sense only when I bought it i thought it was lower than a 1/4 on the front.. Either way I will be adding the standyne conditioner on the next fill. And will probably have to drop the tank soon.
Any other recommendations..
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 11:56 AM
  #7  
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Dave Sponaugle
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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I have replaced both of my sending unit/pickup tubes on mine.
I can tell you that I set my pick up tube to the bottom of the tank on both tanks.
I can also tell you that at 1/4 tank on the level it will suck air and stop on a steep hill, the front tank is to long and skinny to keep fuel to the pickup tube. This is noticably worse with the front downhill it does not have to be that steep of a hill.
With the back tank being square I do not have as bad a problem with hills when low on fuel.
With the original senders in the tanks, I was walking before it said empty on either tank.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 08:48 PM
  #8  
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bigsquirt
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From: The Gorge, Oregon
Thanks Dave,
I'll put it on my list. Also found a letter from the last owner in the rig and found his # from that. And I got a lot of history about the truck and why he pulled the turbo off. Also replaced the O' rings on the oil cooler and the spring (bypass?)that can give you zero oil pressure at the stock gage when it fails. I forgot what he called it, but you guys i'm sure know what it is. and yes he had changed the coolant with the proper sca too. Wheew
He didn't like the fuel mileage 12plus but he felt it should get closer to 15-18mpg empty.. But he was driving to work on logging roads too, and it's not exactly flat out here either... Even in our coast range we can obtain almost 2,000 ft. at our regular driving passes from sea level I might add.. And there are some logging roads in the 3,300 ft. plus areas there as well. Anyway thanks again..
 
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