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I called LMC about their roll pan and after checking the woman said, "Yes. There is some welding required." And that's all she knew. That got me a little hinky because I don't see how you'd get to the bottom bolts of the taligate hinge pins ever again with a roll pan welded in the way.
So then I made my own "bolt on" style pan, but it warped pretty bad right there at the end when it snapped 5 tacks and now it's a "force on" style! Ya just about need a floorjack to twist it up there.
A 2nd attempt is upcoming but I've since had some other ideas. I've seen trucks where the bottom of the tailgate pocket that rotates around the hinge pin is cut out. Under normal operation the tailgate goes up and down on what's left but when you reverse and disconnect the linkages you can bring the cut out back into play and pull the tailgate right out. No need to get to the hinge pins.
I still feel the pins need to be accessable for final adjustment and what have you tho, but once the tailgate's outa the way a simple clearance notch in the pan would solve that problem.
BTW, LMC gets $90 for a plain straight one and $150 for one with a license plate cutout and I think it's only 65-66.