Hi all,

After all my question, I finally installed the new 750 cfm Edelbrock today. It was easy after receiving all the info you guys provided. No hitches(other than breaking the throttle linkage ball) and the carb runs awesome. I had to tinker a bit with the tranny kickdown screw but everything else seems great. The choke works like it should, as does the high and normal idle. I can't believe how much difference it made over the old Holley 4180.

Anyhow, thanks everyone who helped me out on this project!!

youngguy

 

What was your previous topic called. I'd be interested in reading it. I too have the Holley 4180 and am going to replace it with an edelbrock. I was just wondering what all extras you needed. I'd like to order everything I need the first time so I'm not waiting on parts.

I know that I need along with the carb a kick down adapter and I'm guessing something for the throttle linkage. One other question I have is if the carb bolted down with the same bolts used on the holley or do I need to order a bolt kit? Also, does the air filter pan sit right on or will I need some sort of adapter too?

 

I installed the same carb on my 86, and had problems with the kickdown rod. i just took it off, planning on having to have it cut down an inch or so, because the edlebrock sits two inches back or so from the holley. Also, had to modify the throttle cable backet, it is still at a weird angle. Planning on adding the edlebrock intake this week, hoping that their intake has different mounting hole for the throttle cable bracket to make everything line up better. Anyone else had these problems? I still do not have the kickdown rod hooked up, just manually down shift if I have to. Still have the factory air cleaner, just turned the lid upside down.

 

NZABKA,

All I needed for the install was the carb kickdown adapter and the throttle linkage adapter(this is just an oval plate that you bolt to your manifold and then bolt your original throttle linkage plate to it. It just shifts the linkage to the r/h side to eliminate the bend in the throttle cable) Another thing you will run in to is the hot air tubing into the left hand side of the holley for the choke.(By the way, I use right and left side as you are looking at the engine under the hood from the front.) I just took a pair of pliers and pulled both tubes from the plate. They come out very easily with just a little twist. I kept my EGR plate(disconnected vacuum and plugged) and replaced the gasket between it and the intake and used a new thick gasket for the carb. As far as the steel fuel line to the holley, I pulled the fuel line from the hot gas bypass and went to the hardware store and bought a threaded fitting w/ an end on it that I could attach a fuel line to. I pulled the stock air filter housing off my truck and replaced it with an open air 14 inch element for better air flow. I did have to purchase a spacer to lift the lower air filter plate above the linkages. Also, back to the fuel lines, I purchased an aftermarket banjo fitting and steel fuel tube for the carb to bring the fuel connection down from the top of the Edelbrock. Edelbrock sell these for $50.00 but the local parts store (Checker Auto) had an aftermarket version for $9.99. You will also need an inline fuel filter(mine is a clear Fram so I could see the fuel in the line.) and some fuel line and hose clamps. As far as the choke, mine is the electric choke and I wired it to the un-used throttle kicker solenoid on the left side valve cover. I used the red wire with yellow stripes as it is Hot when in the start or run position and is located only inches from the choke housing. Edelbrock states that you can not use the original choke hot wire from the alternator as it puts out too much voltage for their choke. I believe this about covers anything I ran in to. Give me a holler if you have any other questions and good luck!

p.s. the whole project took about two hours for removal and install.

 

Sounds like the only different thing I ran into was the choke. The holley on mine originally had an electric choke, so I did not have the hot air tube, and hooked the new edlebrock electric choke straight to the wire that ran to the Holley. I always wondered about the hot fuel bypass note in the instructions, but everything on mine hooked right up with nothing left over, so i guess that wasn't on mine. It is over 8500 GVWR, and I think that makes a difference as to what emissions that it had. Here if it was 8500 gvwr or under, I would have to pass the tailpipe sniffer, but with my 10,000 gvwr, all I have to pass is the visual, everything is supposed to be there, but doesn't even have to work! As far as I know, all the original smog equipment was on it when I bought it, i have known the owners of this truck since 94, even been paid to fix it for them a few times! i used that throttle cable adapter plate, but the angle is still not right, works OK, just looks odd. Haven't tried my cruise yet, guess I'll find out if it works. Some one had torn into the steering column and took everything out they couldn't figure out how to put back in. This truck had tilt, and the last owner who had it for 7 years, didn't know it! There is a brush that goes back in the steering cloumn under the wheel for the cruise, but don't know exactly where it goes, when you look in the haynes book, it says to take it to a shop for repair of the cruise. Oh, well, maybe one of these days I will find a picture of how it goes back in! For now, I just want to solve this lask of low end that I am having with the edlebrock, just setting it up right I am sure, at least I am getting over 10 mpg!

 

Melissa,

My Holley also had the electric choke. In the installation instructions, Edelbrock suggests against hooking up the hot lead to the alternator which is why I used the hot lead for the throttle kicker solenoid that is not being used anyway. It is the red wire with yellow hash marks going to the solenoid.

I also wonder about the hot gas bypass that Edelbrock recommends using(orifice .040"). Your rig should have this bypass unless someone has removed it. It is to help prevent vapor lock. It is easy to find as it should be connected to the stock steel fuel line that you had to replace. There is a return line coming out of the top of it and back to the fuel tank.

As for the steering column, my local Ford dealer gave me a detailed schematic off their computer with all the steering column parts and p/n's. Maybe one of these would help you.

 

This sounds like they are talking about the vapor seperator, and I replaced it with the factory part # before i bought the edelbrock Could this be one of the reasons that i don't have the low end power that I should? Maybe time to call the edelbrock tech line and find out I'll let you know what they say

 

Yes, it is the vapor separator that they are talking about. For your information, I stopped by the local Ford dealer today and they told me not to worry about changing to the vapor separator with the .040" orifice unless I had trouble with vapor lock. The tech informed me that it is mostly needed on motorhomes that don't get as much air flow to the engine compartment and tend to vapor lock easier.

 

Your tech was only referring to stock applications... With the stock one, mine would suck the fuel bowls dry at 3000 rpm in 4th, on just the primaries....
I had to swap it out for the .040" one.
Also, installing my 750 was a drop on and go process, didn't have to play with the throttle linkage at all.
I did follow the E-Brock instructions and run a new choke wire, but, other than that, and making sure that the throttle bore in the carb and spacer were precisely aligned(the secondaries are EXACTLY the same size) so that the secondaries actually open, I did no tinkering. Although, I do have a 4 speed truck.

 

I did swap out the vapor seperator for the one that edelbrock recommends. Haven't taken it out on the road yet, just had to move my trailer around the yard. Can't tell any amazing difference. I have to have a vacuum or EGR problem of some kind. Play with it some more on Sunday. Maybe get the new intake on...