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How to change coolant?

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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 09:37 AM
  #1  
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How to change coolant?

I am looking for advise on changing my coolant. Excuse my ignorance but I am looking for instructions or steps to take to do a good job. I have a 99 7.3 liter with 63k miles and have never changed the coolant and the recommeded interval is 60K. I have added the additive every 15K but thouoght I would change the fluid completely. I haven't even looked at the truck but I am wondering how do I drain the coolant from the radiator, resiovoir, and the block? What coolant should I use to repalce what I drain? thanks in advance.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 07:28 AM
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Here you go https://www.ford-trucks.com/faq/1999...ce-Cooling.htm
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 08:17 AM
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I am not sure if it is necessary, but it seems to really speed up thermostat opening...I remove the temperature sender just to the left of the waterneck until the coolant reaches that level when refilling. Then I fill the radiator to the top. Then I fill the rest of the way. I run the engine briefly and then I crack the temp sender open again and more air will come out. Otherwise it seems like the water will take a long time to open the thermostat, and they don't provide any other bleed mechanism.

Birken
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 10:43 AM
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Ps 250, thanks for the link. Lots of good info.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 10:49 AM
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How do you guys get rid of used coolant? It's a pain to get rid of it legally.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 04:04 PM
  #6  
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Make sure you do it right!!!!!, If my little sister's dog gets in to it and dies. I'll make clint eastwood look like wimp!!!! Remanber high plains drifter.... I thought so
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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It's great with Smirnoff or 151 Bacardi. Just kidding!!!

Bill in KY
 
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Birken Vogt
I am not sure if it is necessary, but it seems to really speed up thermostat opening...I remove the temperature sender just to the left of the waterneck until the coolant reaches that level when refilling. Then I fill the radiator to the top. Then I fill the rest of the way. I run the engine briefly and then I crack the temp sender open again and more air will come out. Otherwise it seems like the water will take a long time to open the thermostat, and they don't provide any other bleed mechanism.

Birken
I have always drilled an 1/8 in hole in the thermostat disk. This allows the air to excape when you are refilling. 1/8 isn't big enough to effect cooling/heating, but definately aids in air removal. This way you don't have to remove any other components or wait for thermostat to open.
 

Last edited by Stroker01; Mar 25, 2004 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Stroker01
I have always drilled an 1/8 in hole in the thermostat disk. This allows the air to excape when you are refilling. 1/8 isn't big enough to effect cooling/heating, but definately aids in air removal. This way you don't have to remove any other components or wait for thermostat to open.
Good tip that works well.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 10:13 AM
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From: Penn Valley
There were recommendations specifically against drilling the thermostat in the early Ford diesels, and the Powerstroke has a hard enough time keeping itself warm. What is really annoying is they could have run another vent hose from the water pump to the surge tank, but didn't. Nor did they install an auto bleed like the IDIs. Oh, well.

Birken
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 07:34 AM
  #11  
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I have a 01 PSD and after reading this thread I'm a bit confused about the coolant thing. Is their anything special I need to do with my coolant. I just purchased the truck back in December but nothing was said about testing coolant or adding an addative, am I missing something? I changed my oil yesterday and I noticed that my coolant level is close to the min mark so is there some special type of coolant I should use to fill it back up to the max? My truck has 56k so I'm definantley interested in hearing about this total coolant change at 60k. Any information on the testing and addatives would be greatly appreciated. This PSD maintenace thing gets addicting lol.
 

Last edited by macrac; Mar 27, 2004 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 07:49 AM
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I changed mine over to Shell ELC so I dont have to use the additive. Even though its an extented life, I will still be changing it every 3 years. However, the whole key is to get it pre mixed at either 50/50 or 60/40 depending on the area you live. That way you dont dilute it with tap water that has the harmfull minerals. Shell dilutes it with Deionized water that is pure.
Hope this helps.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by macrac
I have a 01 PSD and after reading this thread I'm a bit confused about the coolant thing. Is their anything special I need to do with my coolant. I just purchased the truck back in December but nothing was said about testing coolant or adding an addative, am I missing something? I changed my oil yesterday and I noticed that my coolant level is close to the min mark so is there some special type of coolant I should use to fill it back up to the max? My truck has 56k so I'm definantley interested in hearing about this total coolant change at 60k. Any information on the testing and addatives would be greatly appreciated. This PSD maintenace thing gets addicting lol.
Go to the link I posted above.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 03:42 PM
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I just went out and tested my coolant with the Fleetguard 3-way test strip. If my eyes aren't failing me, I get 2.8 or better. molybdate row 4 or a little better and nitrite columb F. Freeze point is at 60%. I believe that this is right on.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Stroker01
I changed mine over to Shell ELC so I dont have to use the additive. Even though its an extented life, I will still be changing it every 3 years. However, the whole key is to get it pre mixed at either 50/50 or 60/40 depending on the area you live. That way you dont dilute it with tap water that has the harmfull minerals. Shell dilutes it with Deionized water that is pure.
Hope this helps.
Good point here. Weather you get 50/50 or full strength, NEVER use tap water to mix with coolant in PSD's or any newer cars for that matter. Aluminum radiators don't like the chemicals in tap water. (And neither do water pumps). I find it it cheaper to get full strength and mix with distilled water (when adding 20 gallons of coolant, it works out to be about 70% of the cost of a 50/50 mix even after adding SCA's.
 
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