When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok,
I posted some pics of my truck in my gallery. I am still trying to figure out which carb I have so that I can get a rebuild kit and start getting things up and running. I took a couple of pics of the carb as well. Can anyone help me here?
Welcome to FTE. Very clean Bronco!!! You have the 351W H.O., which came factory-equipped with the Holley #4180 4 barrel carb. There should be an ID tag on the front, with a MotorCraft no. I have the same on my 84 Bronco (see gallery). Be forewarned that if this is the original carb and has been rebuilt in the past, you are better off replacing it if it leaks gas. If you get a kit for it, get a Holley ($50) and not the cheaper brands, cause the gaskets need to be "just right" to work properly. An OEM Ford unit is $750, but a reman. unit is about $325. An Edelbrock #1406 will work also, it's $300 if you have the auto tranny. If you have electric choke, make sure the alternator power lead and relay are working. Mine gave me fits for a while...
Last edited by justshootme84; Mar 23, 2004 at 11:27 PM.
Fantastic...Thanks.
I do not see any signs of it leaking gas.
I do not know if it has been rebuilt or not in the past,
but I can not find the Motorcraft tag, so I am sure that has been removed at some point. I checked for a kit at Autozone and it was like $30.00. I will assume this is a knockoff brand. Do you know where I can get the Holley kit at?
I believe that I have electric choke, but how will I know for sure? and if so, how can I check that lead and relay?
My prob right now is that it starts hard, and has some dead spots when I hit the gas wanting to stall while I am driving. Other than that it runs good, and it idles ok (although maybe a little fast in Neutral or park with no load)
The tag or some numbers should be on the very front of the carb, pointing to the distributor cap. The cheap AutoZone kits from China often have poor alignment of the gasket holes, that's why the Holley kits are better. Try NAPA, Pep Boys, CarQuest, etc. The electric choke will have a wire hooked up to it on the passngr-side of the carb. Just trace this wire around the firewall, to the relay, and then continue around the front all the way to the alternator where it gets power from. The wire just has a clip that pushes into the back of the alt. Really a poor set-up, but that's Ford. Other common problem with this carb is a worn accelerator pump. Sounds like your problem. The kit should help this some. I have my idle set at 600 rpm in Park. That's after it warms up. When it first starts, idle is at 1100rpm. Wait about two minutes, then pump the gas pedal once to get the choke to open up and drops the idle. If the choke is sticking or not functioning properly, you will have a rich condition and get about 6-7mpg. There will also be black soot out of the tailpipe. Also, check out the numerous vacuum hoses. I know there's a spaghetti mass of'em, but a few are critical to the carb and motor, while others are emissions. There is a port right in front of the carb that is plastic and can get broken from the air cleaner that sits right on top of it.
yeah, I dont have those numbers right now, but I posted them in an earlier post about a week ago. No one could decipher the meaning of them. I will check the electric choke and relay. That may be part of the problem. I know the choke is not working right, and so I am running rich...and I am getting about 7 mpg. I figured that the vacuum hoses need to be checked...that is part of my primary headaches.
Holley has a standard rebuild kit and a trick rebuild kit....is there anything to be gained from the "trick" rebuild kit?
I learned alot about my carb from the Holley website, you might find more info there with your part numbers. I cleaned up over half of the vacuum lines by putting in an Edelbrock Performer intake, and blocked a few non-essential hoses for the emissions. Most of that stuff no longer worked anyway, but having it still on the motor gets me by state inspection. If you can find a diagram for the vacuum lines, it will help you trace down the ones you need to have working. BTW, I get about 11.5 mpg, even with the 35" tires and the shaker kit.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.