I made a schematic of the mod I did, it is very crude so no laughing I am not an artist I put it in my gallery......although I have no idea how to look at the gallery......go away for a couple of days and everything changes Although it appears to be another excellant update of the site

 

Sparky, to get to the gallery, click on your name, or the name of the person whose gallery you want to view. You will get a pull down menu - click on view public profile. Scroll down to the gallery...

Easy as wiring a truck..... ;-)

 

Thanks alot for the wiring diagram. Seems easy enough. I'll have to try it out.

 

Thanks muchly, very easy after you know how to do it

 

you may want to rewire the ignition side of the coil. I have a 250 w/390 and it gave me fits. Apparently, Ford had a better idea when they built the resistance to step voltage down from 12 volts to 9 volts for the coil by building the resistance into the wire. I solved my problem by removing the ignition wire from the coil all the way back to the ignition switch, and replaced it with a regular 12 gauge wire with an inline transducer (get em at a parts house). Now it works fine. Good luck.

 

transducer????

 

I wired everything up just like your diagram, Sparky. Everything seems to work fine, and the engine doesn't shut off anymore when I wiggle the ignition switch. However, I did notice that the engine seems to start a little harder and is a little more work to keep running when cold. I may just be imagining this though.
thanks for all the great help
brad

 

Just a thought on that hard starting and problems with cold running....have you checked the base timing lately? If it is too advanced it can cause those problems.

ps
Congrats on the successful completion of the wiring mod
See wiring isn't that hard

 

Yeah, I recently checked the distributer and adjusted the points. Sometimes I have trouble getting the points set just right, so I will have to try setting them again.
thanks again
brad

 

Boy, I thought EVERYONE knew what a transducer was. It is the voltimeteroptic sphere of the bloviastic concentric pulsating seismical atmospheric waves that result in the reduction of the staticalogical influence that causes coil breakdown.

GOT IT?????????
DAN

 

Hey Sparky,

You may have solved my problem, too. I've got a 1972 F250 with a somewhat similiar ignition problem. Had the problem for four years and changed everything INCLUDING my underwear and nothing helps. thanks to your advice, I found the pink rubbery wire marked "resister" and I intend on changing to a 16 guage wire with a ballast resister in it. Wish me luck.

DAN

 

Is that what happens when ball lightning hits your vehicle?

 

OK Good Luck
Hope it solves the problem........underwear is expensive

 

Ok, Ok...everybody Had A Good Laugh. Me Too. Transducer Refers To A Device That Concverts One Form Of Energy Into Another, Like A Microphone Converts Sound Waves To Electrical Energy. What I Should Say Is A Resistor. My Apologies, I Probably Really Confused Some Redneck Out There Thinikin It Was A Two Speed Tranny Or Something (trans Duece'r)

 

Well, I thought the problem was fixed, but it isn't. Today I got in the truck and it did the same thing. It started and ran for 30 seconds and then it shut off. So I kept cranking it, but as soon as I released the key to the "run" position, the engine shut off. So, I did this a few times, then reached under the dash and wiggled the wires coming from the back of the ignition switch, and the engine started up. So, I wiggled the wires again, and it shut off. So, with the ignition circuit in the "run" position replaced, something else is causing the problem. What other wires that come out of the ignition switch effect the ignition circuit? If my oil pressure guage, temperature gauge, or the wires going to them are malfunctioning (ie-- they think that I don't have proper oil pressure or think the engine is running hot), do they have the capability to tell my ignition switch to cut the power to the ignition circuit. I know that this problem is a wire coming out of the ignition switch. Like I said, the engine fires just fine in the "start" position, and I replaced all of the ignition wiring for the "run" circuit.
this is very frustrating
thanks for any help
Also, the ignition switch is fairly new. I know it is tempting to think that it is the problem, but it can't be logical. All of the bullets are tight on the switch and the clips in the connector that goes in the back of the ignition switch are tight, so wiggling the wires would not effect their performance.
brad