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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 07:13 PM
  #16  
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no, and i wont as long as there not that far off.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 09:36 AM
  #17  
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one more thing, can i install the headers while the engine is out? will it fit when i install the headers while the engines out?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 09:44 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by FERacing66
one more thing, can i install the headers while the engine is out? will it fit when i install the headers while the engines out?

You probably need to set the headers in the truck, then install the motor. You'll need some help to move the headers around as the motor goes in.

I'm pretty sure it will not go in with long tube headers attached.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 01:55 PM
  #19  
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Nope, won't drop in with headers attached. I already tried .
Your best bet is to lay the headers in there, then SLOWLY set the motor in.
Greg's right, it helps to have an extra set of hands working with you.
But make sure those hands aren't somewhere there not supposed to be when letting the motor down. Last motor I put in, the hoist went south, luckily my friends hands were out of the way.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #20  
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Yup got them on my '70 sport custom, 360, 2wd. Have no problems on the head end, just the collector gaskets. On mine on the passenger side the collector ends about an inch in front of the tranny crossmember, which made it really hard to get the bolts in and tightened. If it was me and I had it to do again I would shorten both collectors by about a inch and a half or two inches and reweld the flanges on to avoid this problem.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #21  
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I took my Dynomax and cut the collector flanges off and welded an extension onto the header that got me past the tranny. Then I clamped the pipes going back on (I always have trouble with the collectors leaking). No leaks this way but you could weld the extensions on that have the collector flanges on them and you would be able to get your bolts on easier. I used an extension that went from 3" down to 2 1/2" and it was about 14" long.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 07:23 AM
  #22  
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Are most of you with these Dynomax reducing from 3" to 2 1/2" exhaust tubing?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:46 AM
  #23  
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From: BaileysCrossroads VA
I had Dynomax headers on my 75 F100/390. The drivers side header hit the clutch throwout fork. I had to cut 1 of the corners on the exhaust flange off to make it clear. Next time Im going with S&S...anyone have their numbers or website by chance?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 10:26 AM
  #24  
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I bought a package from Summit with Dynomax and a universal dual system. It eventually fit withoug cutting anything, but there was a fair amount of forcing. I think I may have had to reverse one of the Thrush turbo mufflers (they say it's ok) to give me driveshaft and fuel line clearance.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #25  
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what about the flowtechs? there only 10 bucks more do they fit any better than the dynomax's? id rather get something thats fairly easy to install.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 01:08 PM
  #26  
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FE- Everybody that I've talked to likes their Flowtechs. And I haven't heard of any issues with them yet either, if I did it again I'd probably go with the Flowtech's.

Winchester- Going from 3" to 2 1/2" works fine. 2 1/2" exhaust is plenty for most FE's.
Except Scouders .
 
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 10:54 PM
  #27  
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I bought a set of flowtech for my 66 352 and returned them as soon as I opened the box. They where bad! The sealing surface was so small it would slip right into the port! Also, how can a a header opening of 2.4 square inches mate up to a port that is 3.4 square inches and not cause a restriction. If this is not a problem then why do people spend a small fortune to have their heads polished and ported?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 12:55 AM
  #28  
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OK...... So who's headers did you use??
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:36 AM
  #29  
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darn, i dont what header to go with the two cheap brands suck for matching up the ports and i dont want to spend a fortune on headers. is there any other brand in the $100-$130 range?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 10:26 AM
  #30  
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Looks like I have two opions. 1 - Buy a cheep set and install new thicker manifold flanges and then have them milled off or 2 - have Stan's headers in Seattle make me a proper set that are done right the first time ( big bucks but I hate the thought of changing gaskets all the time) UNLESS SOME ELSE KNOWS A BETTER IDEA???
 
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