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I have a 93 F150 302/E4OD that is running rough. I dumped the codes and got 536 and 632. ALso I did an online scan while the engine was running and got the following:
sparkadv 23.5
iat 1.0v
coolant 192
egr feedback .4v
tps .9v
battery 14.4v
injector pw 4.4ms
egr vac regl 0.0%
iac 1.9%
o2 sensor .51v
open loop
was it at running tempreture? over here the o2 sensors switch between .01 .99v the .51 is the set voltage by the ecu if either the o2 sensor is faulty or not up to working tempreture.
the sensor should also be in closed loop rather than open loop
hope this helps
well over here running tempreture on coolant sensors is between 75-110 degrees, a good test for the lambda (o2) sensor is to blip the throttle a few times to dump loads of fuel down the exhaust then the sensor should move to a rich mixture say go up to 700-800 MV (.7-.8v)
if you hold it at 2000rpm the o2 sensor shoudle switch between 100mv-900mv (.1-.9v)about once every second,
if you pump acelerator say about 5 times fairly quickly so it dumps fuel down the exhasut it will read high as i said before it shoudl go high 900mv to indicate more fuel going through if it doesnt do that then i would say ya o2 sensor not working.
thats what i would fit to my car anyway, if american ones work diferrent then by all means tell me im wrong.
Everything looks just fine. Those codes are from you not hitting the brake pedal and pushing the OD cancel switch when prompted in the test. O2 voltage should switch between about .4V and .7V. Anything less than .3V is lean, and above .8V is rich - .51V is not bad at all. I thought it would be in closed loop at that point though.
does the o2 sensor stay at .51v or does it switch?
about EGR they open under certain throttle/engine conditions they are not constantly open so the 0.0% means its shut i guess
EGR is supposed to be closed at idle. If the computer is in open loop, it probaby won't switch. .51V is stoich., and indicates that the computer has guessed right for air/fuel ratio. I don't know why it is in open loop - at that operating temp, I would think it should be in closed loop at that point.
if the o2 sensor stays at .51v then i would say that the o2 sensor is the problem i would try one of them
BUT thats only if the o2 sensor does not switch if,if it stays on .51v or around .50-.59v then i woudl stick a new o2 sensor in it
i have changed a few (probaly 5-6) on UK fords like 4 cylinders escorts etc because they stay in open loop, if i saw on my tester that at operating tempreture the o2 sensor was in open loop and stayed a .5v i would fit a new one.
i was told once that its because the sensor goes wrong and stays at a constat voltage it cant hold in closed loop dunno how true this is but as i say i have changed a few tha stay in open loop and has cured the problem,
In all cases it has cured the open loop/fixed voltage problems with carsa i have tested
I havent had a chance to dig further. I disconnected the battery last night to reset the computer. I am going to start fresh with the tester, and also check the o2 sensor for a voltage switch as recommended sometime this weekend. Will keep you posted.
Thanks for the input.
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