Cleaning MAF - Reviewed FAQ - Need Clarification
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Cleaning MAF - Reviewed FAQ - Need Clarification
I reviewed the info in the FAQ thread about cleaning the MAF.
The FAQ thread says to access the MAF on 1997+ trucks by going through the air filter housing. I pulled my filter today and I can see the filaments for the MAF. Can I just shoot the filaments with the cleaner (STP Throttle Body Cleaner) or do I need to remove the sensor somehow?
There does not appear to be an easy way to remove the sensor itself.
Assuming I can just shoot the filaments with the cleaner, do I need to disconnect the wiring to the sensor?
My plan is to hit it with cleaner and let it sit for 15 minutes or so to dry. I need this amount of time for the computer to reset anyway. Does this seem like the way to go?
The FAQ thread says to access the MAF on 1997+ trucks by going through the air filter housing. I pulled my filter today and I can see the filaments for the MAF. Can I just shoot the filaments with the cleaner (STP Throttle Body Cleaner) or do I need to remove the sensor somehow?
There does not appear to be an easy way to remove the sensor itself.
Assuming I can just shoot the filaments with the cleaner, do I need to disconnect the wiring to the sensor?
My plan is to hit it with cleaner and let it sit for 15 minutes or so to dry. I need this amount of time for the computer to reset anyway. Does this seem like the way to go?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
That's the way I did it, but other's recommend
taking it completely out of the intake tube.
It helped alot on the performance.
I wasn't sure how to disconnect the sensor either.
Just be sure to let it cool before you hit the hot filaments.
Going after the EGR clogs this weekend.
Maybe replace the IAC while I'm at it.
'97 F150 Supercab XLT 4.6L 127K
'99 Eddie Bauer Expedition 5.4L 85K
taking it completely out of the intake tube.
It helped alot on the performance.
I wasn't sure how to disconnect the sensor either.
Just be sure to let it cool before you hit the hot filaments.
Going after the EGR clogs this weekend.
Maybe replace the IAC while I'm at it.
'97 F150 Supercab XLT 4.6L 127K
'99 Eddie Bauer Expedition 5.4L 85K
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Will do.
I am doing that and several other tune-up things tomorrow.
The main job will be replacing plugs and wires. I have already printed out most of the plug/wire change thread to have handy during the job.
Luckily, I have the '97 4.6L, so I will not be fighting the COPs that you others have to deal with. I was casing things out today to prep for the job. Sure does look tight back on #4 and #8.
I am doing that and several other tune-up things tomorrow.
The main job will be replacing plugs and wires. I have already printed out most of the plug/wire change thread to have handy during the job.
Luckily, I have the '97 4.6L, so I will not be fighting the COPs that you others have to deal with. I was casing things out today to prep for the job. Sure does look tight back on #4 and #8.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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I sprayed mine with carb cleaner while the battery was disconnected and let it set for 15-20 mins. It appeared to be cleaner after but it still pinged and I noticed no difference. I finally drained my tank and put in some 93 octane gas. It pings like a thousand times less but I can still hear it when I'm on the gas going up a steep hill. My next step is a chemical attack through PCV hose with some Sea Foam. Then I'm gonna change plugs and wires. Can't believe they want $7.50 a plug and $136 for the wires.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 118
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From: Belleville
62,000 miles and I cleaned mine and now I can't get rid of the engine codes...i've had them reset twice and now the engine light just stays on. Codes said lean mixture bank one and two...so I'm assuming the O2 sensors don't know what to do with a clean MAF??? There are 4 sensors and each is over $40 a piece.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
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From: Cajun Country
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 118
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From: Belleville
Thx.....I saw in some threads where it may be the PCV hoses...mine a kinda old and scraggley...will replace and reset puter to see if it happens again.
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I just finished changing wires and plugs. Cleaned MAF at the same time.
My spark knocking is gone, but now I get quite a bit of "skipping" during acceleration. I got a check engine light after driving for about 20 minutes. Have not had chance to check codes yet.
I also replaced PCV valve.
I am pretty sure that I did not damage MAF wires during cleaning.
Any ideas?
My spark knocking is gone, but now I get quite a bit of "skipping" during acceleration. I got a check engine light after driving for about 20 minutes. Have not had chance to check codes yet.
I also replaced PCV valve.
I am pretty sure that I did not damage MAF wires during cleaning.
Any ideas?
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More info about my current problem in case some of you folks are on here late on Saturday night.
1. Sounds like one or two valves on the passenger side are clicking. Not sure if this was the case before started today.
2. Hesitation only occurs during acceleration. Seems like things are okay at constant speed, but major hesitation during acceleration.
3. Hesitation ranges form slight shudder to jarring entire vehicle.
4. Smooth idle.
5. Almost 100% spark knock gone.
6. Seems overall more powerful that before work today.
7. Check Engine light came on after about 10 mile test drive. Shuddered throughout test drive.
8. Work today included:
* changes plugs/wires
* changes rear diff fluid
* changed PCV valve
* cleaned MAF
* cleaned throttle body
Going to try to get AutoZone to read codes in the a.m.
1. Sounds like one or two valves on the passenger side are clicking. Not sure if this was the case before started today.
2. Hesitation only occurs during acceleration. Seems like things are okay at constant speed, but major hesitation during acceleration.
3. Hesitation ranges form slight shudder to jarring entire vehicle.
4. Smooth idle.
5. Almost 100% spark knock gone.
6. Seems overall more powerful that before work today.
7. Check Engine light came on after about 10 mile test drive. Shuddered throughout test drive.
8. Work today included:
* changes plugs/wires
* changes rear diff fluid
* changed PCV valve
* cleaned MAF
* cleaned throttle body
Going to try to get AutoZone to read codes in the a.m.
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Junior User
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See my other thread for the whole story, but this one ended up not being an MAF problem after all. I was getting close to deciding on an MAF replacement when we found a loose #1 plug wire. Problem solved.
Thanks for the advice. I know a lot more about MAFs than I ever did.
Thanks for the advice. I know a lot more about MAFs than I ever did.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 276
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From: Texas
Thanks Racerguy for the pic, when I put my Volant intake on I had to remove the MAF and bolt it directly to the new Volant filter box. I couldn't remember how I got it out but the trickiest part was wigging a screwdriver in place to pop the electrical connector loose.