I had codes ran and was told my right bank was running lean and that I should change the HEGO sensor. I looked it up in my cd-rom service manual and ordered a $40 socket said to be required. Had to backorder and wait a few weeks. I then attempted changing it out. Socket didn't help and I had to drop the exhaust and pull the cat. I destroyed the HEGO sensor without getting it off, then realized I was pulling the Back sensor. So I bought a back sensor and pulled the front one as well. Exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. Welded a nut to them and got them removed and replaced. Had to use a pipe wrench to pull the HEGO sensors and retap threads with a spark plug tap (same size threads). So after all this trouble I put nickel anti-seize lube on the HEGO sensors. I reinstalled the exhaust and then attempted to put in HEGO sensors. Had to drop it again in the front before I could get the HEGO in. I got the anti-seize on the tip but wiped it off with a shop towel. After I was through with the truck and drove ~30 miles, the "Check Engine" light came on again.

I am assuming it still has the same error code and HEGO isn't functioning right or my problem actually dealt with the wiring in the first place. I need to re-run the codes. My question though is if anyone ever cleaned HEGO sensors with aerosol cleaner such as B-12 or carb cleaner or brake cleaner? I also have acetone but know that the sensors are sensitive and that I might end up replacing both again anyway (@$45 ea.). Truck runs okay, lacks pep, reduced mpg., and sometimes tries to idle at 450 rpm. Truck is a '98 F250 LD 5.4L listed below in signature. Any replies appreciated and yes it was a bad day (actually 10 pm Sat. night) and normally things don't get so complicated. Thanks, Tim

 

Not a hundred percent on this but I don't think you can clean them. The tips have very fine pores on them so some of the gas can get in the sensor and I don't think you'll be able to get the antiseize out of those pores.

 

I'll scan the codes again to be sure it's still the HEGO and not IAC or TPS etc. I don't have much to lose be cleaning them if they come out ok this time. If I have a problem, I'll just replace them. Thanks.

 

Which codes?

 

if u clean them use "electrical motor cleaner".....I used that on mine and it cleans up good. With that said, if I take the trouble to remove them I would probably just replace them.

 

yes you can clean them, if you don't have the money or whatever, but you will get best performance with new ones.

I had a supercoupe tbird that I was getting ready to sell, and it threw an o2 sensor code a week or so before I was going to sell it.

I was able to clean the sensor and get the car running good again by spraying some electrical parts cleaner on the sensor.

But if I were keeping the car, I would just order new ones.

Later,
JH

 

These are new sensors, just possibly contaminated.

 

You did not need the required tool to remove the sensor. The sensor is very easy to remove and if you have a tool box I'm sure you have the tool.

Your best bet would be to buy new sensors or a replacement for the one not working good. You will lose a major amount of gas if not replaced. You will also be running in limp mode.

You can go to an autozone and pick them up at a low price.

 

I didn't need the tool but didn't know that until after I bought it. A 7/8" open end wrench would've worked fine if they hadn't been stuck. Of course I had to drop the exhaust from the manifold and unplugging the wiring harnass wasn't easy. They are $45-$49 a piece because like I said earlier, they are new.

 

Good to hear you got everything under control!

 

I thank everyone for their replies. Some were useful, others weren't. It is annoying when people respond without reading the posts or look down at those with a problem. If they didn't ever make mistakes or have problems themselves, they wouldn't be at a forum like this. Anyway, if it helps their ego, I can live with it. Someday they'll learn that by being helpful, they will a better person than they think they are. Cleaning the sensors was no problem. My idle problem still existed though. Reran codes, this time lean on both banks. It appears that the original problem was just a vacuum leak on the soft elbow coming from IAC going to PCV. Changed it and sparkplugs, fuel filter, air filter, and truck is running fine. Thanks. Tim