'91 clutch questions...
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Junior User
Joined: May 2003
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'91 clutch questions...
I have my '91 F-150 in the shop today to replace the
intake gaskets. While there, I asked them to look at the
clutch, possibly bleed it, because sometimes it's hard
to shift.
They quoted me $130 for the clutch work, which I
declined because the thing still works. But in reading
through the archives... I see some concerns:
What years have the plastic clutch rod? (This sounds
like a terrible design.)
They said my clutch needed a new plastic bushing, and
that it was a few hours to replace... (hence the high
quote). How hard is it to replace this bushing?
Thanks for any help.
Regards, Cliff
intake gaskets. While there, I asked them to look at the
clutch, possibly bleed it, because sometimes it's hard
to shift.
They quoted me $130 for the clutch work, which I
declined because the thing still works. But in reading
through the archives... I see some concerns:
What years have the plastic clutch rod? (This sounds
like a terrible design.)
They said my clutch needed a new plastic bushing, and
that it was a few hours to replace... (hence the high
quote). How hard is it to replace this bushing?
Thanks for any help.
Regards, Cliff
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
Are you talking about the plastic clutch master cylinder rod and bushing? I've got a '95, but if its the same, then that bushing takes minutes (at MOST) to fix, and if it's worn, will make it tough to shift.
Crawl under the dash and take a look at the rod connecting the pedal to the clutch MC. If it's using the plastic rod/bushing combo, then you may see the rod shift to the side if you push the pedal down some. It pops right off, but have a spare ready, as it's easily destroyed (by ordinary use, in my experience.)
You can get them at the dealer. It's a rip off at ~ $7, but there's no aftermarket I know of. I finally got sick of replacing them, and had the pin drilled by a machine shop, and added a cotter pin.
It's not hard to bleed the slave cylinder either, which may help shifting. Check your Chiltons/Haynes manual.
Crawl under the dash and take a look at the rod connecting the pedal to the clutch MC. If it's using the plastic rod/bushing combo, then you may see the rod shift to the side if you push the pedal down some. It pops right off, but have a spare ready, as it's easily destroyed (by ordinary use, in my experience.)
You can get them at the dealer. It's a rip off at ~ $7, but there's no aftermarket I know of. I finally got sick of replacing them, and had the pin drilled by a machine shop, and added a cotter pin.
It's not hard to bleed the slave cylinder either, which may help shifting. Check your Chiltons/Haynes manual.
Last edited by ajstephan; Mar 17, 2004 at 10:56 PM.
