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Bad valve, need some advice

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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 11:26 AM
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Bad valve, need some advice

I took my newly acquired 76 supercab 4x2, 360/c-6 to a trusted mechanic for some carb work. The truck had been parked for quite a while and the carb was leaking and I didn't want to mess with it. Anyway, my mechanic has been doing some investigating and found that the number 8 valve is bad.

I'm looking for some advice on what I may be getting into here. The truck is solid, no rust anywhere, but the problem here in MT is 4x2's are not worth a whole lot, no matter how nice they are. I've only got $1000 in the truck, but the estimate to take care of the valve problem is a minimum of $700. The mechanic says he can get the carb tuned well enough and thinks I might be able to sell it for $1000 as is. Just not sure what to do. I don't have a lot of extra cash right now, so I may sit on the truck for awhile and then have the work done.

I'm a little annoyed since the guy I bought it from said it had been rebuilt about 25K miles ago... gotta make a phone call to him and see if he wants to change his story.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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cowboywanabe ~

I'd say if you plan to keep it another year to go ahead and do it. It's pretty hard to find car payments that are less than $100.00 a month...
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 01:36 PM
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Where at in MT?

There is a place in billings that will do a complete valve job, with new valves for $300.

You can also go up to Dietz yard and pull a head for yourself for $25, and a new head gasket and some anitfreeze and you are good for $50.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 02:02 PM
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Re: Bad valve, need some advice

Originally posted by cowboywanabe
my mechanic has been doing some investigating and found that the number 8 valve is bad.
How did he find this? Compression test? Also, did he pull the valve cover to see if the spring was collapsed or if a keeper may be loose/gone?
It is possible that after sitting awhile it may have rusted the valve and caused it not to seat properly, but it could be minor.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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Mattsbox99 - I'm in the Helena area... to save $400, it would be worth a trip to Billings! Where is Dietz located?

Ron - I'm pretty sure he did a compression test, I know he said he would know more if I wanted him to start ripping into it. I was thinking maybe I would take the valve cover off and look, but I didn't want to make matters worse. I plan on talking a little more with the mechanic after work today.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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Dietz is a junkyard near my house. I was in there a few weeks ago, and he had a 390 2V engine that somebody had just brought in.

I'll get the phone number to that shop and post it in the High Plains forum. Scroll down to the Club FTE chapters to find us.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 09:33 PM
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Talked a little more with my mechanic and the number 8 cylinder only tests at 65 on compression. He said if I decide to have the heads done, he would know once they were off if the existing heads can be re-done or if I should go for new ones.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 09:44 AM
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IF it was rebuilt and did sit for a long time you might have a stuck valve or lifter. Pulling the valve cover and turning the engine over without starting it would tell you if things are moving up and down OK or a valve isn't going all the way closed. If not it might be fixed with a good dose of Marvel M. oil.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 10:07 AM
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Thanks Bear Tracks, I actually had a bottle of Marvel in my hand last week when I picked up oil change supplies... But, at that point, I didn't think I had a problem, and I didn't buy it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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If you try the oil flood it down the carb carefully for a while and then just enough to kill the engine. Let er set for 10 minutes. I usually put another one in the oil.
 
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