Door panel fasteners
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Originally posted by Jag Red 54
Ok fenders, I admit it, I am impressed. I thought that I might be one step ahead of you on this one. Wrong. But, when you pulled the shafts out, did you replace the tension springs inside the little shaft retainer compartment? If you did, then that's really impressive. PS: where'd you get those little springs anyway? John
Ok fenders, I admit it, I am impressed. I thought that I might be one step ahead of you on this one. Wrong. But, when you pulled the shafts out, did you replace the tension springs inside the little shaft retainer compartment? If you did, then that's really impressive. PS: where'd you get those little springs anyway? John
Afraid you'd call me out on this one
It was a long time ago but here's what I believe I did. Ground off the 4 little tabs, did the 5/16" stretch and re-assembled. I tacked the tabs back with a MIG. My springs are fine. Firm pressure is needed to open doors. Now that's a good one. Wish I knew how. I'm not going to peel the fabric back off the foam. You know how that would end. Did you forget the part about my wife showed some interest and helped me make these. Too risky LOL. Guess I'm stuck with RMFs idea. Darn!
I'll experiment with the velcro this weekend.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 486
Likes: 66
From: South Carolina
Being that I've seen pictures of your truck,might I suggest using 4 1/2" x 6" bolts and nuts per panel.Those would go well with your "clean,professional" look,ecspecially if you paint the heads farmall red.You may have problems rolling the windows down,but your truck is air conditioned,isn't it?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Originally posted by Purple55
Being that I've seen pictures of your truck,might I suggest using 4 1/2" x 6" bolts and nuts per panel.Those would go well with your "clean,professional" look,ecspecially if you paint the heads farmall red.You may have problems rolling the windows down,but your truck is air conditioned,isn't it?
Being that I've seen pictures of your truck,might I suggest using 4 1/2" x 6" bolts and nuts per panel.Those would go well with your "clean,professional" look,ecspecially if you paint the heads farmall red.You may have problems rolling the windows down,but your truck is air conditioned,isn't it?
(No offense to those who have actually tried tried to help here) Let me get a few more "solutions" out of the way before we proceed. Liquid Nails construction adhesive, nylon zip ties, and Crazy Glue have also been culled.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
I was in a streetrod shop a few years ago as they were putting the finishing touches on a $250,000 41 ******. The entire interior was held in with velcro! That is also what Rod Doors uses on their interior kits.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
fenders, I like the idea of the velcro, but it sounds like a lot of trouble to make a bead to put around the edge. I know that you have lots of left over remnants just like I do. However, I think the 90 degree clip would make a much easier job and cleaner look. If you do go the rolled-bead route, how about a couple of pix? Maybe somebody else can benefit from your fix. And even if you go with the 6" lag bolts, I'd certainly like pix of that too!! 
John
John
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
I think I have to suck it up and use Chuck's solution. It's the correct use for the clips and panels I have. Hopefully I can do it without destroying the panel edges. Velco just puts the panels out too far. It will look bad at the top.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Now Dwayne, lets be clear here. Are you going to put on a clip that goes over the edge of the panel and is visible? The clips I was proposing will go through an elongated hole in the panel but be concealed by the material. Kind of a stealth clip. They are installed from the backside. You would need to elongate the holes in your door panels, but, in my humble opinion, would look much better than clips that show all the way around the edges. 
Good luck, John
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
Hi
Would it be feasible to slip the clip thru the hole (using the edge of the hole like it was the edge of the panel) on the upholstered door panel and then drill new holes in the door to match?
Chuck
Would it be feasible to slip the clip thru the hole (using the edge of the hole like it was the edge of the panel) on the upholstered door panel and then drill new holes in the door to match?
Chuck
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Originally posted by merc546
Hi
Would it be feasible to slip the clip thru the hole (using the edge of the hole like it was the edge of the panel) on the upholstered door panel and then drill new holes in the door to match?
Chuck
Hi
Would it be feasible to slip the clip thru the hole (using the edge of the hole like it was the edge of the panel) on the upholstered door panel and then drill new holes in the door to match?
Chuck
John
No, the clips will still be concealed. I have to tear the fabric off around the edge, install the clips, then re-glue the fabric back. Wouldn't be too back if it was fabric straight to panelboard. The thin layer of foam pad is going to tear. Absolutely guaranteed. What it looks like when I re-attach fabric after I'm done is the question.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,243
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From: Michigan
Ok, How about just cutting the fabric that is rolled over in line with the hole and just wide enough for the clip. then just push the clip under the foam? Then you can reglue the small strips .
May have to trim a little from the edge to make the clip land in the center of the hole. hopfully this way you wont hurt your panels.
Good luck
Chuck
May have to trim a little from the edge to make the clip land in the center of the hole. hopfully this way you wont hurt your panels.
Good luck
Chuck
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Dewayne, the method and type of clip I'm talking about would not require the removal and replacement of the material around the edge. The clip slides in from the back through the elongated hole. It is intirely made of molded spring steel about the width of a pencil lead. The hole would need to be resized to about 1/4" tall and 3/4" wide. The foam padding would contour right over the clip, thus completely hiding it. But, I understand that you may prefer this other clip/method. It's OK. Just as long as you are aware that there are other solutions. I won't get my feelings hurt. 
Good luck, John
Good luck, John
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: MOYOCK NC
dewayne
this company might be able to help they have all kinds of different fasteners http://www.restorationspecialties.com /hope this helps
gee ooh
this company might be able to help they have all kinds of different fasteners http://www.restorationspecialties.com /hope this helps
gee ooh
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
John
I'm sure what you are talking about would work. But I don't really have a clue what the clip looks like. I wouldn't know what I was talking about if I attempted to mailorder it. I'm just gonna go for it. These interior issues have been dragging on for a year and I'm ready to close the deal. I'll know after installing a clip or two if I can pull the fabric off without extensive damage.
Fortunately we made the panels before I met Gear Up and I didn't use his favorite adhesives, which are also handy for installing IFS crossmembers if you don't know how to weld.
Just to reinforce my interior frustration point a bit. Remember my drill a 3/4 hole in the glovebox stereo mount sheetmetal deal? Well I squared away the plate. Installed my Alpine stereo where the Sony was. I like the Alpine because it has a rotary volume ****. Oh but it sticks out farther than the Sony and the glovebox door won't shut anymore without hitting the CD layer. DOH!!!
I'm sure what you are talking about would work. But I don't really have a clue what the clip looks like. I wouldn't know what I was talking about if I attempted to mailorder it. I'm just gonna go for it. These interior issues have been dragging on for a year and I'm ready to close the deal. I'll know after installing a clip or two if I can pull the fabric off without extensive damage.
Fortunately we made the panels before I met Gear Up and I didn't use his favorite adhesives, which are also handy for installing IFS crossmembers if you don't know how to weld.
Just to reinforce my interior frustration point a bit. Remember my drill a 3/4 hole in the glovebox stereo mount sheetmetal deal? Well I squared away the plate. Installed my Alpine stereo where the Sony was. I like the Alpine because it has a rotary volume ****. Oh but it sticks out farther than the Sony and the glovebox door won't shut anymore without hitting the CD layer. DOH!!!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Dewayne, I know what you mean about it just dragging on and it's time to just go for it. If it turns out that it does not work or is not to your standards, let me know. I will fax you a picture of the thing. Sorry to hear about the stereo. Sometimes if it weren't for bad luck, we'd have no luck at all (In my best Hee Haw accent) Good luck, John