Long story short....

Battery got completly drained...to nothing. The truck sat for 3 mos. while I changed a bunch of parts, and last night I got her goin again. Runnin bad.

It took it a long time (20 min) for the idle to come around. It was surging and roaming all over....stalling too. After 20 min, it would stay running but stall if you gave it gas and let off. Another 20 min and that problem went away....but it would fall WAAAAY down before it caught itsself.

Battery voltage is good and holding. Oil pressure just above the middle at idle. Temp stays below the middle and no engine light. It seems a bit "rough" at idle, but cleans up aroung 1800 to 2k.

PI Heads
Pacesetter Headers
New Timing Chains
New Tensioners
New Guides
New Cam PS
New Crank PS
New Plugs
New Wires
New Fuel Filter
New O2 Sensors

Any ideas? Is the higher compression wreaking havoc?

 

Are you positive cam timing is correct? Also it might take a little while for the computer to relearn.

 

Here is how I ligned everything back up.....

The new lower cam gear has two timing indicators on it. If you hold it so the crank keyway is @ 12, there are two marks (one front, one back) that are at roughly 5 and 7. I turned the crank until #1 was at TDC with head off, and slid the lower cam gear on. The new chains have a copper link, and the cam gear has a timing indicator on it. I lined the back one off the mark on the lower gear, now positioned at 6 because of tdc, and lined the left cam gear with the indicator dot. I then manually turned the crank to verify that I had clearence. I returned the crank and cam to the original position, and did the same for the right side. Again, I manually turned to verify no collisions inside the combustion chaimber, and proceeded to tear the remaining skin off my hands as I reassembled the rest of the top end.

When all is said and done, it runs. But that's about it!!

 

The chain is the timing marks. make a mark on 1 link, or use the copper link as a reference. hold the cain by the copper link, you should have 2 links opposite, mark them, and the cam mark goes between them, the crank mark lines up with the single copper link or the mark you make. If not done this way timing is probably not correct.

 

Sounds about like the same difference.

I talked to the guys in Orlando (Super Chips) and they want me to bring the truck to them for a custom chip. They did add, however, that the chip will only pull out the hidden power in my upgrades. Other than that, he said it should be running fine....but it's not!!

 

ranger88....can you send me a pm to contact.....or I'll give you mine.....

 

It only takes 1 tooth to make it run like crap. I can try to give you more info if you want.

 

I just slapped a timing gun on it. It bounces from 10 to 15 before TDC....as it is searching....

 

So here is the latest....

I took each of the injector plugs off (yes, 1 at a time!!) to see if it made a difference in the way she ran. NOPE.

Then I took a stethescope and put it on the end of a long screwdriver and touched the body of each injector. I confirmed that each was working, so I moved on to.....

I decided to try some old fashioned know how, with a new fangled kinda truck. I took my Sun Auto inductive timimg light and checked all of the wires coming off the right coil pack....(passenger side) Every wire was consistent in that it lit the light on each rotation. Then I went to the left bank and there were problem galore...I thought. 2 and 4 seemed to hit on every other, and go out completely around 3 to 4k. Hmmmm...bad coil pack....

Off to AutoZone for a new one, twist the bolts down, plug it in, and NOPE. When I started it, same stumble. Tried my trick with the inductive light again and it was better. Not every other like before, but still a noticeable "skip" on every third or so rotation. It's kinda late, so I didn't want to rev it. Will report tomorrow morning whether or not it is going out completely like before.

Any ideas?

 

Checking with a timing light won't do much good. Your looking at what the computer is trying to do. It can help in some instances but, probably not here all your going to do is confuse yourself. What I'm getting at, is the way you timed this cam and crank you may be off 1 tooth thats all it takes. You can turn the engine over with no problems but, the cam timing may well be off. What I mean is the cam gears dont sit perfectly at 12 o-clock or 6 o-clock when setting them. You have to set them with the chain. The crank you have correct left side at 7 o-clock and right at 5 o-clock. Your timing light is ok but remember, the plugs fire twice on this engine once on the power stroke and also on the exhaust stroke.

 

Gotcha...

That's why I was saying 2 and 4 seemed to hit every other....with the light. Or....half as much as the other 6 wires.

If I remember correctly....as you face the motor.....the left cam was around 11-ish and the right cam was around 1-ish. Both copper links, or the mid point of the chain, were lined up at the bottom and the opposite ends lined with the marks on the cam gear. Not trying to be stubborn, but I labored (mentally) for days about setting it up right. I even took my buddies front cover off, set tdc, and counted teeth!!

 

Is it possible the CHT sensor is sending errant info to the PCM? Truck is NOT running hot, but what if that circuit got activated? Wouldn't that make the the PCM engage the fail-safe cooling program?

 

Have you checked carefully for vacuum leaks? What type of intake manifold do you have? Did it have the PI heads before or did you just install them? Did you install a PI manifold? Silly question but are you positive that all the plug wires are on the right plugs?

 

looks good then, check for vacuum leaks like racerguy says and recheck plug wires. I have had a lot of problems with the pcv hose off of the rear of the intake . Check it closely.

 

Racer and ranger....

Glad you guys are givin this some thought. I reprinted the firing order last night (in my gallery) and re-comfirmed that each tower went to the proper location. Frankly, I WISH it was something silly like me havin my head up my ***!!

Good angle with the vac leak. I went to every connection and sprayed a bit of CRC at and around each one. Nothing

Racer....it is the stock intake. I sent it out to a place called Power Heads in Cali. They had to add more to the intake runners where it meets the head, so that they could cut out the inside to match the pitch and shape of the head ports.

Any thought on the other thing.....Fail Safe getting engaged somehow?