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It's a real pita,did the same on my 94 tried undoing the mounts and jacking the engine up by the balancer.no room,ended up pulling the whole engine out,which in fact made it all alot better to work on the rear seal.
good luck!
JFR-
as far as I'm consernd IT IS NOT POSSIBLE itried to do my pan seales and rear main with the engine in no matter how many times you bust your knuckels and twist your face it's still easier to pull the dambed engine.
I replaced the 2 piece rear seal on a 79 f-150, 2wd, 400 cid that I once owned. It was not that difficult and I am cetainly glad that I did not remove the engine to do it. Like mark a. said check the sender first. If it's not cracked now it will be when you jack up the engine the 3 inches necessary to remove the pan.
I have a '77 F-150 4x4, 351M, Drove to Atlanta and back (near 1000 miles) thinking I had a bad sender or guage as showing almost no poressure down oin Tenn, got home and found it was running the whole time with about 4 or 5 psi hot. Replaced rod and main bearings and oil pump and rear seal at 75,000, bearings showing copper on bottoms, front main was worst of the bunch.
I just jacked the truck up and set on heavy jack stands, then I let the front azle hang and simply dropped the panhard rod from the frame end, and dropped the oil pan. Was really easy. I did drain oil first.
I removed one main and one rod bearing and took to NAPA and a buddy miced the thickness over at the side surface where almost no wear exhisted (they wear in the bottoms of the mains, and the tops of the rods the most, but the mains were what were worn out). A book he had told him I had standard bearings, so that is what was put back (not even the Ford garage could tell me what I had by the numbers written on the backs).
Truck has 99,000+ now, still 60 psi hot. Gonna build that 400 this summer anyway though, use them new pistons I just got off ebay.